My 95 Neon Project Thread

Doug95neon · Post by **Doug95neon** » Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:41 pm

Yeah, I read about that. I was tired of spending money especially since offset is my problem. When I get the right wheels then I'll have all the clearance I need. But thanks for the link.

Doug95neon · Post by **Doug95neon** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:24 pm

Just a little side note before you read this. I tend to share all the details whether I do something really great or totally botch it. I do this so anyone reading my project thread gets ALL the details of a build and not be led to believe things always go right or I'm some perfect tuner. Call it a fault since I'm basically showing off my work but I'm not much of one for pulling the wool over anyone's eyes. Like it or lump it the truth is the truth. If you feel the need to criticize make sure it's constructive and not bashing.

It's been a shitty week or so and this should have told me not to even start this job:

Black widow spider latrodectus

BUT NNNNNnnnnnoooooooo.... I had to try to go faster tonight and failed.

The modification was a simple one, install an Unorthodox Under Drive Pulley (UDP) in place of the stocker and speed up the revs a bit. I've already done a number of these and never had a problem. I installed one on my RS, on Toney's RS, and a few others with no problems.
Remove Pulley on Right and replace with pulley on left:

Simple Right?

I removed the old pulley with the Dealer tools here:
3 Jaw Puller Miller tool (OTC) # 1026
Insert Tool Miller 6827-A
Air Impact gun
The usual suspects that have always worked in the past.

As seen below the puller grabs the back side of the pulley, the bolt spins on the pin that is inserted in place of the crank bolt. Essentially the crank, pin and bolt stay in a fixed position but the bolt spins. This spinning causes the puller to move further away from the engine, the jaws lock behind the pulley so that the puller and pulley move as one unit thus pulling it off of the crank:

Install was to be done, again with dealer tools, in the usual fashion:
Miller Tool 6792ish (i've robbed a few pieces from various kits, always works though)

Now... this is the part where there's kind of two different instructions and I'm sure this will be an area of trash talking me for not following the UR instructions, save your responses for later.

Instructions that come with the pulley involve heating the hub to about 350+ *F for 30+ minutes, remove and quickly install on the snout of crank. Let cool and then install crank bolt and outer ring.
That's nice.

But those directions sound like they're for someone who doesn't have access to dealer tools. Additionally, it sounds like directions for someone doing the job at home and not a mechanic in a shop... how many shops do you know of that have ovens in them? Not many.

So I start to install the pulley with the tool and it fights me more and more the further on it goes. So I try to pull it off... no dice.

The hub starts to bend:

I try the opposite ends of the jaws (wider grabbing surface) but the pulley won't accommodate the larger contact surface.

Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead:

Yup, it's fubar. The one spot on the right bends away from the hub. You can't pull only two points on a surface that requires a three jaw puller. I start to pull on the backside of the dog ears. Then I realize that if I break these off I can't get the hub off without cutting the hub and risk cutting in to the crank and spending a bunch of time on it to boot.

So tomorrow night I'll bring home the propane torch and see if I can heat it up enough so that it will come up pulling on the dog ears. I'll also bring home a different puller that will use the bolt holes instead of trying to grab the back of the pulley.

My question seems to be a logical one. I have the dealer tools, I'm doing it the most correct way I know how. In the event that I heated first and it slid right one... it would seem retarded that I should have to heat it to pull it off if I were to ever try and service the timing belt things. WTF?

Sigh.... never a dull moment.

roysneon · Post by **roysneon** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:03 am

Doug95neon wrote:

I did the same thing to a stock pulley because the end of the threaded portion of the puller was bent and I was pulling against the face of the pulley instead of right on the pin. My AF/X pulley slid right on and then the crank bolt pushed it on the rest of the way no problem, but it has been installed a couple times beforehand.

Doug95neon · Post by **Doug95neon** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:05 pm

I had a customer bring me an Ebay UDP last week and it slid all the way on. I told it wasn't a good idea to have the bolt be the only thing holding it in place so I didn't install it. Strange to go from one extreme to another all in a weeks time.

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 2:27 am

shops dont always have ovens, but they do have torches

when i installed my af/x on my old 1g and the megan on my 2g we heated the center of the pulley with a torch, while leaving a icepack on the crank snout.

heat makes metal expand, cold makes it shrink, that combination makes the pulley slide on with zero effort.

as for removal you dont use a 3jaw puller like you do the stock pulley (as you already found out), you use the puller that looks like a ducks foot or a 3 point steering wheel puller, then you thread some longish bolts thru the puller to the mount points on the pulley, put in your crank insert rod/bolt and have at it.

applying heat to a pulley already on the crank wont help because you end up heating both the pulley and crank. i've never bent the pulley insert weither it be the AF/X, UR, MPx, or eBay UDP

heres a cheap (but decent quality) puller, ive used it to pull the crank sprocket as well as my steering wheel off my current 1g project

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=37824

Doug95neon · Post by **Doug95neon** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 2:25 pm

THanks for the info, I've got a Mac Tools puller kit like that I will bring home (when I remember) to pull off the pulley the rest of the way.

wickedgoodneon · Post by **wickedgoodneon** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:03 pm

Did you remember? lol

Doug95neon · Post by **Doug95neon** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:58 am

Remember what? Of course not tard!

XCLR8TN · Post by **XCLR8TN** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:53 pm

I like your project. One question, the dyno sheet on the first page, was that on a Mustang Dyno or a Dynojet?

thx, and awesome work, love the car (perfect height)!

wickedgoodneon · Post by **wickedgoodneon** » Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:38 pm

Since Doug has been really busy lately I don't think he will mind that I answer.

He did his dyno on a super flow awd dyno.

http://www.3sx.com/dyno/default.asp