How-To: 1st Gen SRT-4 Turbo kit

DOHCRT · Post by **DOHCRT** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 10:31 am

Very simple. This first image is of a coolant line connected to the coolant passage on the block behind cylinder #2. The other line is the oil return line, hence why it is connected to the oil pan.

These next photos are what I did to tee the coolant lines to the heater hose. I welded a -6AN fitting to one of the heater tubes. Before this, I used a plastic hose barb tee on the heater hose itself.

CodeBlue92089 · Post by **CodeBlue92089** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:59 am

Ok i know SRT4 turbo has 4 holes on it. And what Sizes are the screw holes so i can get adapters for them.

Whats the TOp hole ( Coolant feed ? )

Then you get the 2 holes next to each other.

Is the 2nd one from the top coolant return ?

is the 3 one to the buttom Oil Feed ?

4th is oil Return i got that one lol.

i need to know because next week is nice so im going to put my turbo on.

DOHCRT · Post by **DOHCRT** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 5:35 pm

The top fitting on the center housing of the turbo is the oil feed. The bottom fitting is the oil return. The two fittings on the back are for coolant.

The thread for the coolant fittings is M12x1.25mm. I forget what the oil feed is. You're better off just buying the SRT-4 lines and modifying them. If you're interested in making all the lines from AN hose and fittings, you should check out the forced induction forum on neons.org. There is a sticky for it.

Personally, I used the SRT-4 lines for the coolant and flared them to accept AN fittings (37 degree flare). This is only possible if you have equipment to flare stainless steel tubing. This usually requires the use of a hydraulic flaring machine. For the oil feed, I used braided AN hose. The oil drain is just the stock SRT-4 drain tube with a piece of -10 AN push-lok hose clamped on.

RydinSolo · Post by **RydinSolo** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 10:14 pm

Awesome write up dude, I'm sure it will help allot of people, this is the most understanding for me(even though i have done this a few times pretty mucht he same way)...i honestly think it is the best write up to under stand..

Great job to the OP

CodeBlue92089 · Post by **CodeBlue92089** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:12 pm

Yeah i didnt know the ports on the turbo since im kinda new on srt4s so i asked but yeah this is a great how to.

CodeBlue92089 · Post by **CodeBlue92089** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:45 am

lol whats the point of doing this on

Step 4: The fuel system

if you got a SRT-4 Fuel pump And Injectors you should be pushing more gas then u need. Plus if u have a Fuel management system then whats the point of this step ?

DOHCRT · Post by **DOHCRT** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:46 pm

CodeBlue92089 wrote:lol whats the point of doing this on

Step 4: The fuel system

if you got a SRT-4 Fuel pump And Injectors you should be pushing more gas then u need. Plus if u have a Fuel management system then whats the point of this step ?

If you have an electronic means of adjusting injector pulse width you do not need an FMU or return line. You simply need a larger fuel pump and larger injectors. If not, then you need to do the spoolboy mod and install an FMU along with a larger fuel pump and larger injectors.

You cannot just install a larger fuel pump and larger injectors and expect the engine to run good. The stock computer is not tuned for this.

Most people who are planning to use a standalone system are smart enough to know that this step is not required unless they plan to use a 1:1 FPR. Since this how-to is written for novices, it is aimed towards a more simplistic method of adding fuel under boost (ie. the FMU).

The optimal fuel system for a turbocharged neon is a standalone (like MS, AEM, etc...) and a 1:1 FPR with the correct size pump, injectors, and fuel lines.

nuklhed074 · Post by **nuklhed074** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 pm

you officially my hero dude im turboing my car as soon as it gets warm here in ohio all i need is a rrfpr and a walboro 255 and some injectors also im not running the srt turbo and i am using a fmic but inlet and outlet are on opposite side but i am doin a full ac delete will i still have an issue?

DOHCRT · Post by **DOHCRT** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:33 am

You wont have an issue with that intercooler, but it will require a little more tubing.

neon95sohc · Post by **neon95sohc** » Mon Nov 15, 2010 6:08 pm

i realize this post is 3 years old but if i dont use a boost controller and run at wastegate boost what will that be?

srt4eh · Post by **srt4eh** » Mon Nov 15, 2010 7:43 pm

it depends on what your wastegate is set at

robert 'bob' paulson · Post by **robert 'bob' paulson** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 2:49 pm

neon95sohc wrote:i realize this post is 3 years old but if i dont use a boost controller and run at wastegate boost what will that be?

if you got the stock srt4 one with a turbofold, its ~4psi. (says in the original post)

Chris1211 · Post by **Chris1211** » Sat Sep 22, 2012 1:17 am

Sorry to be a thread reserector butt how much would some 1 be looking at in price if you do all the work urself just guessing ?? I have about 1k

srt4eh · Post by **srt4eh** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:15 am

If you buy used you can probably do it pretty cheap...depends on how much stuff you plan on modifying...but $1000 is plenty for a turbo kit with all supporting mods. Honestly...for a basic kit you could probably spend ~$600 and be good.

Chris1211 · Post by **Chris1211** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:55 am

Well staying under budget would be great