How-To: Removing the Unorthodox UDP

Post by **RTizzle** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 8:43 pm

Your on crack. You don't need the first damn puller!

Lackof · Post by **Lackof** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:02 pm

RTizzle wrote:Your on crack. You don't need the first damn puller!

are u tom? did u read through it ?!?!... you CAN NOT get the stock crank puller behind the hub therefore you need a puller that has thinner arms on it to grab behind the hub.

come on now ....

fusion210 · Post by **fusion210** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:36 pm

Actually I only used the first puller.

Grab your through bolt from your passenger mount and place it in the hole where the crankbolt was. You can screw it in just a couple threads do not screw it in all that much.

And I screwed that bolt in almost all the way, just leaving a little space between the bolt head and the hub. No insert used.

Lackof · Post by **Lackof** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:55 pm

fusion210 wrote:Actually I only used the first puller.
Grab your through bolt from your passenger mount and place it in the hole where the crankbolt was. You can screw it in just a couple threads do not screw it in all that much.
And I screwed that bolt in almost all the way, just leaving a little space between the bolt head and the hub. No insert used.

ya i knew that about the insert ... and mine wouldn't fit in all the way and the stock puller would not fit behind the hub. Maybe mine was put on closer but it would not fit. If i could of used the first i would of trust me it would of made things a lot easier.

metal_gear_jon · Post by **metal_gear_jon** » Sat May 19, 2007 2:53 pm

8. Now your done and you should get your crankshaft bolt and screw it in at least a little way to make sure your crank snout has good threads still. I did this off and on throughout the process to make sure I wasn’t harming the threads. I know it may not be the safest way, but there is no other way you can get a different insert for the posi-lock because of the way it is set up(if someone knows please post it and/or let me know). Once you rent the tool you will understand.

What you can do (and what I did when I replaced my water pump recently ) is to use a bolt that is about an inch longer than the balancer bolt and is about 1 or 2 sizes skinnier. Just insert it into the end of the crank an make sure it bottoms out and is centered so it won't chew up any threads in the crank nose. Use the puller just the same to save the crank bolt from any damage from the puller.(of course I used my impact instead of turning it by hand, but that's just me....) Now this only works if you have access to a lot of old bolts lying around from ripping apart cars alot or rebuilding engines. Come to think of it ,the one I used was an old cylinder head bolt.

infil · Post by **infil** » Sun May 20, 2007 10:05 pm

the new version of the snapon puller as well as the OTC chrysler puller/installer set has arms that are remarkably thin, if/when i put a UR on the car i'll see if they fit but i imagine they probably will, maybe .090 thick blades.

Lackof · Post by **Lackof** » Sun May 20, 2007 10:09 pm

more and any information is appreciated. There are a couple ways to do it as far as bolt wise. People have been known to heat it before you take it off which i don't think is smart to, but to all their own.

robert 'bob' paulson · Post by **robert 'bob' paulson** » Mon May 21, 2007 7:55 am

metal_gear_jon wrote:What you can do (and what I did when I replaced my water pump recently ) is to use a bolt that is about an inch longer than the balancer bolt and is about 1 or 2 sizes skinnier.

i've found that the bolt that holds your spare tire in the trunk is nearly the perfect bolt for that. its a carriage bolt so the head is a little rounded but if you can hit it just right, it'll work great.