Neon ACR
- 1genRTturbo
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- Location: Tooele, ut
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- Location: Maryland
- 1genRTturbo
- 1GN Registrant
- Posts: 468
- Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2010 5:20 pm
- Location: Tooele, ut
- custom95neon
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- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 9:13 pm
- Location: Richmond IN
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- Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:39 pm
- Location: Moro, Illinois
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- 1GN Registrant
- Posts: 638
- Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:39 pm
- Location: Moro, Illinois
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- 1GN Registrant
- Posts: 638
- Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:39 pm
- Location: Moro, Illinois
Its been a while since I updated. Last August I had gotten a new job working for Aljets Automotive and I moved, I also had some family issues and so the neon was put on the back burner for a while, I still have yet to get a bell housing adapter made so i stopped with the idea of putting in the V-6.
I found a junkyard 360 V-8 engine and used a slipping 904 automatic trans and rebuilt both.
Heres what I've come up with so far.
1975 360 LA
9.3:1 compression flat top 0.040" over pistons open chamber heads mild headwork
Crane CCH-288-2 camshaft
Comp 995 double valve springs with dampener
Holley Street Dominator Intake
stock truck oil pan
Topped with an Edelbrock Performer 650 cfm carb
904 Automatic with a few goodies inside
2400 RPM stall torque converter with anti ballooning plates
Turbo Action Cheetah Full manual Valve Body reverse shift pattern
This is the first mock up I still have more cutting to do and then make mounts and a frame to strengthen the factory k frame back up. And yes that all fits under the hood.
I found a junkyard 360 V-8 engine and used a slipping 904 automatic trans and rebuilt both.
Heres what I've come up with so far.
1975 360 LA
9.3:1 compression flat top 0.040" over pistons open chamber heads mild headwork
Crane CCH-288-2 camshaft
Comp 995 double valve springs with dampener
Holley Street Dominator Intake
stock truck oil pan
Topped with an Edelbrock Performer 650 cfm carb
904 Automatic with a few goodies inside
2400 RPM stall torque converter with anti ballooning plates
Turbo Action Cheetah Full manual Valve Body reverse shift pattern
This is the first mock up I still have more cutting to do and then make mounts and a frame to strengthen the factory k frame back up. And yes that all fits under the hood.
^^ Awesome ... Where will the radiator go ?
Diane Sox wrote:I don't know all the keys to success, but the key to failure is trying to please everybody.
1952 Chevrolet Sport Coupe
1998 Toyota Avalon XLS
2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
2009 Dodge Avenger SXT
http://www.killermopars.com/index.html
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- 1GN Registrant
- Posts: 638
- Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:39 pm
- Location: Moro, Illinois
dude, sick build sick build. i bought another neon that was a 2dr coupe 5 speed 2.0 sohc that dropped the diff pin out. i needed the motor for my 97 (its a 96) but i wanted to do a V8 in it was my first idea. here is my question for you. is a 318 smaller that a 360 in physical size? i also thought about doing a chevy 350 or a 305 depending on if i get one at a way better deal or not. then i was goign to do a ford 8.8" rearend with a 4 link suspension. thought maybe it would be easiest to just cut the from the back of control arms off to have a engine cradle and then build a frame from there back out of 2x3 1/4" wall box tubing.
97 dodge neon sedan 2.0 sohc
http://forum.1gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=7952&start=0
96 dodge neon sedan 2.4 swap
http://forum.1gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=8602
http://forum.1gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=7952&start=0
96 dodge neon sedan 2.4 swap
http://forum.1gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=8602
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- 1GN Registrant
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- Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:39 pm
- Location: Moro, Illinois
the 318 and 360 are no different externally except the mains on a 360 are larger and they go into the oil pan, a quarter inch spacing difference on the mounting ears for the motor mount on i think the drivers side, so dont worry about it.
A chevy engine is always cheapest but if you do a chevy put it in a chevy. a 350 in a 2gen sunfire would be awesome.
Then for a rear end a ford 8.8 would have to be narrowed and have c-clip eliminators, so why bother get a stronger mopar 8 3/4 with a 742 or 489 case and narrow that with a four link. as long as you stay away from a cone type limited slip you wont be rebuilding it at all. I like my Conquest/starion subframe its heavy to offset some on my weight distribution, its independent for a good ride and its strong, this one lived for a number of years in my brothers 500+ hp conquest before he upgraded to a tubbed and narrowed 8 3/4
i cut just the center out of the factory neon k frame to keep the control arms in the stock location and plan to reinforce that area with tube when i make my engine cradle. the center of the car will be reinforced by an 8 point roll cage by tieing front and rear frame rails together.
the short tube headers arrived today, look for them in upcoming pictures!
Oh and by the way, thought i might add that the v8 is not as heavy on the front of the car as one might think, the factory had a battery, engine, and trans and several little things all over the place, all that weight in front of the tires center line. my V8 has only about half of the engine in front of the tires center line and none of the transmission in front of the front tires. all that weight is being biased or shared with the rear without touching the firewall. I'm not posting any of my weight measurements but with aluminum intake and heads, depending on how heavy the new engine cradle is someone could very easily build a v8 neon that is lighter than factory on the front tires. i know my car will be heavier than stock but my weight distribution might not be that far off from stock, and i will have the extra torque to move the weight. Another thing i think i outta put out there is all i have to ask of my cubic inches is to deliver 1 hp to make 360hp, with a 2.4 you have to ask them to make around 2.7 hp per cubic inch to equal 360.
A chevy engine is always cheapest but if you do a chevy put it in a chevy. a 350 in a 2gen sunfire would be awesome.
Then for a rear end a ford 8.8 would have to be narrowed and have c-clip eliminators, so why bother get a stronger mopar 8 3/4 with a 742 or 489 case and narrow that with a four link. as long as you stay away from a cone type limited slip you wont be rebuilding it at all. I like my Conquest/starion subframe its heavy to offset some on my weight distribution, its independent for a good ride and its strong, this one lived for a number of years in my brothers 500+ hp conquest before he upgraded to a tubbed and narrowed 8 3/4
i cut just the center out of the factory neon k frame to keep the control arms in the stock location and plan to reinforce that area with tube when i make my engine cradle. the center of the car will be reinforced by an 8 point roll cage by tieing front and rear frame rails together.
the short tube headers arrived today, look for them in upcoming pictures!
Oh and by the way, thought i might add that the v8 is not as heavy on the front of the car as one might think, the factory had a battery, engine, and trans and several little things all over the place, all that weight in front of the tires center line. my V8 has only about half of the engine in front of the tires center line and none of the transmission in front of the front tires. all that weight is being biased or shared with the rear without touching the firewall. I'm not posting any of my weight measurements but with aluminum intake and heads, depending on how heavy the new engine cradle is someone could very easily build a v8 neon that is lighter than factory on the front tires. i know my car will be heavier than stock but my weight distribution might not be that far off from stock, and i will have the extra torque to move the weight. Another thing i think i outta put out there is all i have to ask of my cubic inches is to deliver 1 hp to make 360hp, with a 2.4 you have to ask them to make around 2.7 hp per cubic inch to equal 360.
see i love the body style of the 1 gen neons. and like i said i have that 2dr coupe and am looking for something to do with it in the future. and to be honest i like some mopar stuff but im a chevy guy all the way. there cheap, easy, and reliable when it comes to there engines. which is why i considered a 350 or a 305. i dont mind staying mopar but im not going to use only mopar products if someone else has something better ya know. like how everyone uses a ford 9" rearend on every brand because it works. as for the rearend that is just what someone suggested to me. i havent looked into it at all to be honest. but i know alot of people who can help me in diffrent areas so the shortening of the rearend is not a big concern to me really. i to would like to do a roll cage inside probly also a 8 point. but i was thinking of basicly building a frame that ran at the pinch welds and probly even welded to them like the sub frame connectors on a 87 camaro would be. i was thinking maybe like a s10 frame up front with the bolt in v8 motor mounts and headers. and i completely understand what your saying about the stock suspension holding it up. its all about weight distribution all day long. but i mean everyone has there own ideas on how to do things and thats ok. thats how people build bad ass rides. but ill deffinately be following and asking questions im sure. so make sure you take plenty of pictures of everything. and i mean everything lol
97 dodge neon sedan 2.0 sohc
http://forum.1gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=7952&start=0
96 dodge neon sedan 2.4 swap
http://forum.1gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=8602
http://forum.1gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=7952&start=0
96 dodge neon sedan 2.4 swap
http://forum.1gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=8602
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- 1GN Registrant
- Posts: 638
- Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:39 pm
- Location: Moro, Illinois
Make it a sleeper, that would be so sick!
-Neon #3 1999 Dodge Neon R/T, Flame Red, DOHC MTX, Goodies, "Christine X2"
-Neon #6 95 NYG sport coupe SOHC MTX, 1 0f only 527
jamieely wrote: There are 2 kinds of people here, those with coupes, and then the other guys. If srt4s were coupes I would have one.