N/A build on my 95 ACR

Have a question about how to make horsepower going the all motor route, here's where to ask it.
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fusion210
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Post by fusion210 » Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:16 pm

The arp stuff isn't needed. The blingy retainers arn't needed. I would get better timing gears as I've also read of the fidanza ones having issues with not only the bolts backing out, but the bolts hitting the timing cover, at least on the srt-4s. I've never personally installed them though.

You will also need something for fuel tuning, no?
Would probably also be a good idea to mill the head for extra compression as vinny said. Otherwise it's a very similar setup to a guy I knew, slowassneon. That car is pretty loapy, I dunno if I could drive it every day. He did, though.

It would be a good idea to get a merge collector on your header as well as having it coated, I've loved the swaintech coating on two different headers. It really blocks the heat and keeps it great looking. It's also really thick vs the other coatings, even if you scrap it, it will still be fine. The armorcoat on my pacesetter now doesn't next to nothing in reguard to heat.
sohcneon13x wrote:
mean98neon wrote:go for a better UDP I have an MPX and I didnt notice a difference at all when it went on...
You don't really notice the UDP. It doesn't give you HP, it just frees a few ponies up.
wikipedia wrote:In the United States the term "bhp" fell into disuse after the American Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) recommended manufacturers use hp (SAE) to indicate the net power of the engine, given that particular car's complete engine installation. It measures engine power at the flywheel, not counting drivetrain losses.

Starting in 1971 automakers began to quote power in terms of SAE net horsepower (as defined by standard J1349). This reflected the rated power of the engine in as-installed trim, with all accessories and standard intake and exhaust systems. By 1972, US carmakers quoted power exclusively in SAE net hp. The change was meant to 'deflate' power ratings to assuage the auto insurance industry and environmental and safety lobbies, as well as to obfuscate the power losses caused by emissions-control equipment.
It gives you an increase in horsepower not only measured at the wheels, but also at the flywheel by which current horsepower rating is done. It gives you SAE horsepower, plain and simple. Saying it gives you none is just ridiculous given how it's currently measured.

sohcneon13x
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Post by sohcneon13x » Wed Aug 08, 2007 8:08 pm

I know it will give HP, but you are not going to notice much of it, if any at all. The only time I could tell a difference was in 5th gear on the Highway. Lot easier to pass without having to downshift.
96 Plymouth Neon Sedan
SOHC/MTX(swapped!)
MOPAR Street Header/3.0 CAI/ATX TB/UDP/95 cam/ ........40+MPG HWY!

96 Plymouth Neon Expresso Coupe
SOHC/MTX
MOPAR ECU/ ATX TB/ 3.0 CAI/ MOPAR X-High Rates & KYB struts

97 Plymouth Neon sedan
DOHC/ATX ...soon to be MTX!
RECENTLY VANDALIZED AND TOTALED OUT!
rebuild?
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Acid_
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Post by Acid_ » Fri Sep 21, 2007 6:55 pm

thought you said you wanted to build a motor not join the bolt on club?

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Cokedoctor
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Post by Cokedoctor » Mon May 26, 2008 5:49 pm

I have an N/A build in my 95 NYG ACR...

3.0L Extended Intake (few inches from the ground)
Mopar Performance PCM
Solid Engine Mount Inserts
Granatelli Ignition Wires
TTI UDP
TTI Long Tube Header
Dynamax 2.5inch full exhaust (no cat)
Crane 18's
Crane Retainers
Crane Springs
Head shaved @ .035
Mild Port Job
1mm OS Valves
2.4L rockers
INDY Intake Manifold
MPx 60mm TB
Hondata Intake Manifold Insulator Gasket
Booger Bushings

It moves along....but it needs to be tuned.
I feel that my car got slower after I installed the INDY manifold. Im going to race my car once more at the strip with the INDY, then run the week after with the stock manifold...and see what works better.
J.Marbs
'03 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport - New Daily
'95 Dodge Neon NYG ACR Coupe-1 of 98
'89 Toyota Supra Turbo
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSi
'87 Chrysler Conquest TSi
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INVUJerry
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Post by INVUJerry » Mon May 26, 2008 6:32 pm

INDY's are known to only be awesome on a boosted car, and not as good on an N/A car.
2005 Neon SXT Black - SOLD
1998 Neon Coupe - SOLD
2004 Neon SRT-4 - 13.9@102
1995 Neon ACR NYG Sedan - 12.5:1 SOHC coming
1996 ACR Sedan - Koni yellows, stock as hell
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Cokedoctor
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Post by Cokedoctor » Mon May 26, 2008 11:44 pm

Hmmm......really? I had alot of luck running the stock intake manifold. Im wondering if i should put it back on, and then just port out the TB hole so i can at least run my MPx 60mm TB. I lost alot of low/midrange power by running the INDY.
J.Marbs
'03 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport - New Daily
'95 Dodge Neon NYG ACR Coupe-1 of 98
'89 Toyota Supra Turbo
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSi
'87 Chrysler Conquest TSi
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misfit4life
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Post by misfit4life » Mon May 26, 2008 11:50 pm

for N/A isnt a 60 mm throttle body to big? i've always heard a 55mm is ideal. i could be wrong

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