Where do i rout the amp wireing kit?

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97_neon_SOHC
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Where do i rout the amp wireing kit?

Post by 97_neon_SOHC » Sun May 10, 2009 10:20 pm

So I have a sub and an amp but they aren't wired in. Should I wait until I replace the carpet to put the power wire in or should I do it before? And do I really have to rout the wires from the amp to the head unit on the other side than the power wire?
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Post by 98neon_r/t » Mon May 11, 2009 10:22 am

Personally, I would wait until you got new carpet, while you have the carpet out you should invest in some sound dampening material like dynamat...unless you want weight reduction... Assuming that your battery is in the front you need to run a fused power wire (sized to your amps wattage) from your battery to your amp. If you are doing a basic set-up you should only run your two audio cables (the R & L) from your head unit to the input of your amp and the remote wire from your head unit to your amp. You could always just jump your remote on your amp but since you have to take the head unit it out do it right and connect the remote wire.

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Post by jamieely » Mon May 11, 2009 7:58 pm

You will get a buzzing noise if you run your RCA cables with your power wire unless you have some really good shielded cables. My last RCA cables were shielded and I still got noise so I had to move them to the other side of the car, but my power wire was 2 gauge. If your power wire is smaller it may not interfere with shielded cables.
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Post by 97_neon_SOHC » Tue May 12, 2009 10:02 pm

well i wired it all up except the remote wire. its all hooked up but im not getting any voltage to the amp but there is power at the end of the cable. I'm running a 1200 watt wiring kit and an 800 watt amp and sub, could that be why?
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Post by 98neon_r/t » Wed May 13, 2009 8:31 am

No, should be the case. Unless you jumped the remote power on the amp w/o hooking up your remote wire it won't work. If you did jump it then check the fuse on your power wire. CONNECT YOUR REMOTE WIRE.

Just FYI...just because your amp "kit" wiring says it can handle 1200 watts doesn't mean it's a true 1200 watts unless its from a know brand like Rockford Fosgate...ect. It would matter if the wattage of the wire is more superior to the amp, the bigger the better...just as long as it's fused properly.

What are the specs on your subs and amp? Make? Model? Same goes for your wiring kit???

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Post by 97_neon_SOHC » Thu May 14, 2009 11:26 pm

my sub is a power acoustik 12" and my amp is a cyclone 800 watt, but I'm gonna get a better amp soon...
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Post by 98neon_r/t » Sat May 16, 2009 4:05 pm

when you get on get a power acoustik amp...you don't want to mix/match

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Post by mahifish » Sun May 17, 2009 2:08 pm

98neon_r/t wrote:when you get on get a power acoustik amp...you don't want to mix/match
Give me one good reason why you dont want to mix and match? I know my shit on car audio. Unless you can prove me otherwise, Im going to say thats horrible advice.
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Post by pettersen » Sun May 17, 2009 5:14 pm

mahifish wrote:
98neon_r/t wrote:when you get on get a power acoustik amp...you don't want to mix/match
Give me one good reason why you dont want to mix and match? I know my shit on car audio. Unless you can prove me otherwise, Im going to say thats horrible advice.
x2, mix and match all you want, a kicker sub doesn't perform better with a 100w kicker amp than with a 100w alpine amp.
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Post by 98neon_r/t » Sun May 17, 2009 7:56 pm

mahifish wrote:
98neon_r/t wrote:when you get on get a power acoustik amp...you don't want to mix/match
Give me one good reason why you dont want to mix and match? I know my shit on car audio. Unless you can prove me otherwise, Im going to say thats horrible advice.
I'm just saying it period. You don't want to do it. What if someone gets a 1000 watt amp from JL that is say...700 rms and wants to push is cheapo 2000 watt 1400 rms sub? odds are he's gonna slam it with all that power and burn the v.c. because he thinks its "the same power"

In my opinion its just a smart thing to do. I'm not saying I've never done it...i know my audio well too trust me...if you want the best results from a system don't mix and match, stay with the same brand.

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Post by pettersen » Mon May 18, 2009 4:49 am

You won't get more out of you'r system running the same brand amp, the more powerful amp you run on you'r speakers the better it is, since it will control the speaker easier and you will get more dynamic sound. Ofcourse some brand's are better than others, so if you stick to the same quality brand's there is no problem in mix and match.


Saying you shouldn't mix and match because you think someone is so retarded that the first thing they do is to turn their gain to max, and burn the v'c, is just not a good argument.

100wrms in 2ohm is 100wrms in 2ohm, there is no difference between brand's unless they state a false wrms.
Cheap brand's have a tendence to state max watt in 1ohm, and the quality brands usually uses 2 or 4ohm, and state both max and wrms, and this is confusing for everyone who doesn't know to much about audio.
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Post by 98neon_r/t » Mon May 18, 2009 10:08 am

pettersen wrote:You won't get more out of you'r system running the same brand amp, the more powerful amp you run on you'r speakers the better it is, since it will control the speaker easier and you will get more dynamic sound. Ofcourse some brand's are better than others, so if you stick to the same quality brand's there is no problem in mix and match.


Saying you shouldn't mix and match because you think someone is so retarded that the first thing they do is to turn their gain to max, and burn the v'c, is just not a good argument.

100wrms in 2ohm is 100wrms in 2ohm, there is no difference between brand's unless they state a false wrms.
Cheap brand's have a tendence to state max watt in 1ohm, and the quality brands usually uses 2 or 4ohm, and state both max and wrms, and this is confusing for everyone who doesn't know to much about audio.
You guys I KNOW THIS. It's just that i'm trying to get someone not to fuck their shit up. It's just a rule i've learned by with car audio. He could always fuck with his speaker wire to increase the resistance and ect...but I'm just a firm believer sticking to my shit. If I have a 600w rms PA amp at 1ohm stable then you best believe there will be a sub on the other end of that that is a 600 rms PA at 1ohm. That's the best way to get the performance out of your sub. Give it EXACTLY what it needs.

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Post by mahifish » Mon May 18, 2009 5:24 pm

98neon_r/t wrote:
pettersen wrote:You won't get more out of you'r system running the same brand amp, the more powerful amp you run on you'r speakers the better it is, since it will control the speaker easier and you will get more dynamic sound. Ofcourse some brand's are better than others, so if you stick to the same quality brand's there is no problem in mix and match.


Saying you shouldn't mix and match because you think someone is so retarded that the first thing they do is to turn their gain to max, and burn the v'c, is just not a good argument.

100wrms in 2ohm is 100wrms in 2ohm, there is no difference between brand's unless they state a false wrms.
Cheap brand's have a tendence to state max watt in 1ohm, and the quality brands usually uses 2 or 4ohm, and state both max and wrms, and this is confusing for everyone who doesn't know to much about audio.
You guys I KNOW THIS. It's just that i'm trying to get someone not to fuck their shit up. It's just a rule i've learned by with car audio. He could always fuck with his speaker wire to increase the resistance and ect...but I'm just a firm believer sticking to my shit. If I have a 600w rms PA amp at 1ohm stable then you best believe there will be a sub on the other end of that that is a 600 rms PA at 1ohm. That's the best way to get the performance out of your sub. Give it EXACTLY what it needs.
He isnt going to mess his stuff up if he runs a different brand amp. A firm believer in sticking to your shit?....hmm that proves a valid point,

Dont cheap out on an amp. Ive always run alpine or JL amps. Never have had a problem with either one. I know a lot of people that go with no name cheapo amps and end up frying it less then a month later.
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Post by 98neon_r/t » Mon May 18, 2009 5:39 pm

mahifish wrote:
98neon_r/t wrote:
pettersen wrote:You won't get more out of you'r system running the same brand amp, the more powerful amp you run on you'r speakers the better it is, since it will control the speaker easier and you will get more dynamic sound. Ofcourse some brand's are better than others, so if you stick to the same quality brand's there is no problem in mix and match.


Saying you shouldn't mix and match because you think someone is so retarded that the first thing they do is to turn their gain to max, and burn the v'c, is just not a good argument.

100wrms in 2ohm is 100wrms in 2ohm, there is no difference between brand's unless they state a false wrms.
Cheap brand's have a tendence to state max watt in 1ohm, and the quality brands usually uses 2 or 4ohm, and state both max and wrms, and this is confusing for everyone who doesn't know to much about audio.
You guys I KNOW THIS. It's just that i'm trying to get someone not to fuck their shit up. It's just a rule i've learned by with car audio. He could always fuck with his speaker wire to increase the resistance and ect...but I'm just a firm believer sticking to my shit. If I have a 600w rms PA amp at 1ohm stable then you best believe there will be a sub on the other end of that that is a 600 rms PA at 1ohm. That's the best way to get the performance out of your sub. Give it EXACTLY what it needs.
He isnt going to mess his stuff up if he runs a different brand amp. A firm believer in sticking to your shit?....hmm that proves a valid point,

Dont cheap out on an amp. Ive always run alpine or JL amps. Never have had a problem with either one. I know a lot of people that go with no name cheapo amps and end up frying it less then a month later.
I never said he would mess his stuff up with a different brand. I just said if he goes and gets some big huge amp then most likely he will. If he want's to get all of the potential out of the sub he has then he should stay with the same brand and give it what it needs as far as Power Acoustik is concerned. Does that also mean that I can start puting Honda parts on my car? :shock:

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Post by 97_neon_SOHC » Tue May 19, 2009 2:04 am

well i had the remote wired to the wrong wire on the stereo...then my battery melted the power wire, kinda. i got the amp and sub for like 100 bucks for both of them at a liquidation sale, but i am looking for a better amp because it was cheap and I was told to run more watts in the amp rating than the sub rating.
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