How To: Half-Clutch or Drag Shift

BlueR/T
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How To: Half-Clutch or Drag Shift

Post by BlueR/T » Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:23 am

Disclaimer: I was taught this by a friend who has been drag racing professionally since before i was born, I am not responsible if you blow your engine, clutch or transaxle, also its not my fault if you crash your car because of torque steer,
THIS KIND OF SHIFTING IS EXTREMELY HARD ON YOUR CAR


this is very similar to powershifting, but you still use the clutch

I am going to describe this on a 1-2 shift, but it can be used on any upshift, if you don't understand something, don't ask and don't try the shift, this is more of a "must be shown in person" kinda thing, but i have tried my best to put it into text



start by simultainously pulling the stick out of 1st and pressing the clutch in only to the point where the clutch is still engaged but not enough to keep the stick from going into 2nd,

as the stick passes over the N position press the gas so the RPMs jump high

just after the stick passes N and starts to go into 2nd let off the clutch so that it fully engages at the exact same time the stick has fully engaged the 2nd gear, now go WOT


if done right, you will spin the tires and have a big lurch forward

if done wrong, well, you better have a good mechanic

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99dohcneon
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Post by 99dohcneon » Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:24 pm

if done right how bad is it on your tranny/clutch?
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Post by racer12306 » Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:26 pm

it would still be pretty harsh on the trans and clutch.

i tend to just be really quick with the full clutch.
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99dohcneon
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Post by 99dohcneon » Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:23 am

racer12306 wrote:it would still be pretty harsh on the trans and clutch.

i tend to just be really quick with the full clutch.
I think I will stick with the the full clutch. I dont have any extra trannys laying around or the patience to do it.
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99 neon with 2.4 swap w/ 2.0 cams, afx race ecu, 60mm jeep tb, cai, header, polished intake, straight pipe with no muffler, poly. inserts, pt clutch, B&M sts w/booger bushing and skunk2 springs. 14.3 (gtech) 2.5 60 foot :O

'98 neon rt srt swap w/20g turbo ran on MS 18psi Project log
http://www.cardomain.com/id/the_game_rock

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Jordan2.4
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Post by Jordan2.4 » Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:33 am

Full clutch + Full throttle always works fine for me.
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Post by racer12306 » Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:18 am

^^^i was thinking later, what about keep your foot to the floor on the gas and just push in the clutch and pop it into the next gear

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99dohcneon
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Post by 99dohcneon » Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:47 am

racer12306 wrote:^^^i was thinking later, what about keep your foot to the floor on the gas and just push in the clutch and pop it into the next gear
I tried that before it dont sound very good when you shift like that. Maybe I did it sucky?
Image
99 neon with 2.4 swap w/ 2.0 cams, afx race ecu, 60mm jeep tb, cai, header, polished intake, straight pipe with no muffler, poly. inserts, pt clutch, B&M sts w/booger bushing and skunk2 springs. 14.3 (gtech) 2.5 60 foot :O

'98 neon rt srt swap w/20g turbo ran on MS 18psi Project log
http://www.cardomain.com/id/the_game_rock

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Post by BlueR/T » Tue Feb 27, 2007 4:08 pm

you have to let off the gas slighty, even though the shift only takes a blink of the eye (literally) to perform, if you leave your foot on the gas your still gonna hit the rev limiter, which is bad,

you want the rpm's to be 1000-2000 more than what they should be when you go into next gear:

if your in first at 35 MPH you should be about 7000 rpm

35 mph in second is: 4100

when doing the shift you want the RPMs to jump to 6000, thay way there is enough room for RPM drop off to still have an increase in RPM

in the end you should end up at about 5300 RPM, or 45 MPH

thats a 10 MPH increase from just a shift, and you stay in the powerband

any honda who hoped to catch you on your shifts just had a rude awakening

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Post by racer12306 » Tue Feb 27, 2007 6:51 pm

why is hitting the rev limiter that bad?

i could see it hurting your time it you were accelerating and then hit the limiter. but many people have computers that take thier car above the factory rev limit.
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Lackof
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Post by Lackof » Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:02 pm

i would think this produces to much wheel hop for someone not running DRs.

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Post by BlueR/T » Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:27 pm

racer12306 wrote:why is hitting the rev limiter that bad?

i could see it hurting your time it you were accelerating and then hit the limiter. but many people have computers that take thier car above the factory rev limit.
no the sudden bouncing of rpms is hard on your valve-train at 7500+ rpms, because of this, more modern cars don't bounce they just stop reving higher

hitting the rev limiter every once in a while is ok, but if you let it bounce alot your gonna need new lifters and rockers soon

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Post by 1fast2liter » Wed Mar 07, 2007 11:02 pm

alls i can say is ouch!!!
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Post by SPARKZ » Sat Sep 29, 2007 5:41 am

well i dont know how new thie is to everyone else but i kind of figured that out for myself a few years ago in my old stang did you know if your rev the motor high enough you dont even need to ingage the clutch to shift ? after trying this i blew a few clutches and and lost reverse but it was an awsome experince to master i can do it almost any car now if you have dog cut gears it works even better :)
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Post by swifty » Mon Oct 08, 2007 8:26 am

I full throttle shift,gas stays down all the time,tap the clutch and mash the gear,if you shift fast enough imo this is what works best for me. I also found that wearing work boots gets me a better shift :lol:
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Post by SPARKZ » Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:35 pm

swifty wrote:I full throttle shift,gas stays down all the time,tap the clutch and mash the gear,if you shift fast enough imo this is what works best for me. I also found that wearing work boots gets me a better shift :lol:
work boots lol... mine are always wet so work boots wont help me shift espechially if you have monster feet like i do..
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