How To: Atx to MTX Explained Better

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afireinside4848
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How To: Atx to MTX Explained Better

Post by afireinside4848 » Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:38 pm

I will explain the atx to mtx swap best as I can step by step, but its been a while since I've had the atx in. Seems no swap on the net is step by step so I'll do my best.This swap can be tough at first but once you know what your doing its super quick and easy. Expect A whole day for your first time. Have extra money and whatever else you may think you need.

Parts:
Mtx trans (3.55 or 3.94)

Mtx PCM(SOHC/DOHC depending on your engine)(Within year)

Bobble Strut

Mtx Shifter Assembly(w clips)

Mtx Shifter Cables

Bobble Bracket Welded to Kmember(or swap mtx kmember if you have to, and only if you have to)

New shifter Bushings(look for booger bushings online)

Shifter Cable Bracket(w clips)

Mtx Passanger Side Axle(drivers side from atx is fine)(If you have ABS and want to keep it make sure you get an ABS one, if not either is fine)

New dif seals(Not needed but just to be sure, if it leaks you won't find out till its too late)

New Throw Out Bearing

Clutch(Mod is eaiser, its preassembled)

3 quarts Mtx transmission fluid(or ATF+4,only ATF+4 brand)

Clutch/Brake Pedal Setup

Nuetral Safety Switch

Clutch Pedal Safety Switch(Optional, but better so you don't start with it in gear)

Clutch Cable

Energy Drink And Food

A friend to help(Optional but makes it quicker)


Tools:
3/8 inch socket wrench(with like 12 inches of extension)
10mm
13mm
14mm
15mm
15mm(long)
18mm
18mm(long)
21mm(long)
32mm(long)
Pliers
Phillips Screwdriver
2 Jacks
Jackstands
Oil Bucket

If I forgot Anything Let Me know

The DOHC is a bit different, the shim plate uptop has a bolt on it but you'll figure it out.

Not 100% but I believe when your done your looking at about $350-500 for this.

Pull your E brake tight b4 doing this!!!!

1.Start off by putting the car on the jackstands(you can loosen the wheels now or later with the brake applied).

2.Pull the wheels off.

3.Using the 32mm take off the wheel axles nut(with a breaker bar). You will need the brakes applied. Take off the caps over the nuts first if there are any. You may not be able to get the axle out yet.
If you have steel wheels or wheels without the caps in the middle you can just do the nut while the wheel is on the ground. You can also use a screwdriver or other piece inserted into the vents of the rotor pushing against the caliper if you don't have any help.


4.Drain the Transmission. The Bolt is on the underside of the trans by the axles.I believe its a 13mm or 15mm.

5.Pull the axles out. This might be a bit tough, you need to use a small crowbar and have the right leverage point, I believe the hump s should be towards the front of the car. This can be a pain or be super easy so prepared to get mad. YOU MIGHT NEED TO DO THIS AFTER STEP 6 BUT SHOULDN'T MATTER

6.Using the 21mm Take off the two nuts and bolts on both struts. Take off the nut and tap the bolt out. Tap out the axles here, you may need someone to hold down the wheel assembly while you tap and pull the axle out.

7.Uptop take the battery, then battery tray out. Pop the control module box off the battery tray and tape it off to the side. You might as well swap PCM's now, with 3 10mm bolts.

8.Take off the cover to the throttle body. Take off the 2 10mm bolts on the TB.

9.Pull the shifter cables off. I believe the atx has a extra cable going from TB to trans, take it off.

10.Take off the 18mm bold on the back topside of the trans to engine. Also take off the nut that hold the TB bracket on. The bracket should come off now, undo the TB cable. Now take off the Top front bolt on the trans using the long 18mm.

11.Underneath take off the 2 bolts on the bracket to the oil pan. They are 15mm. Next take off the bolt connecting the bracket from trans to engine, the bracket is underneath the car right in front of the passanger axle. Take off the bolt for this bracker from the engine too. Its a bit hard to reach. They are 18mm I believe.

12.Take off other bolts on the bracket that connected to the oil pan. They are either 15mm or 18mm.

13.Take off the FMM bolt. Its a 15mm. Take off the 2 15mm bolts that connected up to the frame. Then take off the mass dampener Bolt, it also connects to the frame and hold son that rusted thing in the middle that you jack the car up with. Take the bracket off.

14. Take out the starter bolts. Either 15mm or 18mm. Pull the starter off. REMEMBER THE BLACK WIRE TO THE STARTER IS CONNECTED TO THE ALTERNATOR, IT IS NOT NEGATIVE IT IS A POSITIVE WIRE !!!!

15.Take off the bracket that has the FMM on it. The front of it has 2 15mm bolts, and there is also a 15mm bolt connecting it to the trans. Pull the bracket off.

16.Take off the small 10mm bolt holding on the shimplate underneath on the trans. You will need to rotate the flywheel witha crowbar. Take off the four 18mm Bolts on the flywheel. This is tough it may want to rotate when you push. Be careful.

17. Take off the back bolt from the trans to engine, its in there somewhere. Its a 18mm.

18.I suggest putting on the two top bolts lightly just so the trans doesn't slip off when you pull it off.

19.Now Put a jack under the oil pan, right by the bracket holes. Using something flat helps to not damage it, but I never had a problem(careful, not my fault if you damage it).Jack up the trans as well, only enough to make it go up like a mm. You can use one jack to do all this but 2 is eaiser. Now take off the plastic hole cover form the driver side wheel spot. Using your extensions ans a 18mm socket, take out that bolt.

20.Lower the trans and engine(this is where 2 jacks is nice).

21. Make sure the engine is secure, if you can find something the right size stick some 2x4s udner the engine instead of the jack so its more stable.

22.Now take off the 15mm bolts on the trans mount, once the trans is low enough to reach the bolts.

23.Carefuly pull off the trans, You may need to pry it off, I'd suggest not going underneath to do this unless you have some sort of engine hoist to hold the trans up incase. The trans needs to be lifted up and pulled, because the spline connects through. This part may be tough. If it doesn't seem to be budging or in one certain spot SONT KEEP PULLING, check for bolts you didn't take off.

24. Now the trans should be out.Take a break damnet! :shock:

25.Now take the clutch and bolt it to the flywheel. Its strongly suggested and should be done to get 4 new bolts from the dealer, as they stretch out. ALSO GET LOCTITE. Put tons of it on each bolt. CAREFULLY tighten the bolts. If you have a torque wrench use it and find out the ft/lbs for these bolts. If you strip these bolts it won't be good.If you don't have it be careful, but you do need to tighten these enough or they will fall out. You should replace the dif seals if they look bad, but taking the trans apart is risky it can be tough to put back together and break the output bearing like me lol.

26. Put the TOB on and clutch fork should be on there. make sure the fork is over the TOB like it should sit. Put the mtx trans on, this can be tough on your own so have someone hold it in while you put on the top two bolts, don't tighten them super tight and make sure everything is lined up. The mtx trans is alot lighter so one person can lift it let alone hold it up. carefully put the shim plate back on underneath the car.

26a.Put the clutch cable throught the little hole in the firewall, there is a plastic cover. From the inside of the car grab the cable and pop it into place on the clutch pedal. The spring should be the part near the firewall. Attach the cable to the clutch fork, you put the washer over the cable hold it down and pull it into place on the trans. If you can't do this by hand something isn't right. REASON THIS STEP IS NOW IS BECAUSE YOU NEED TO PUT THE CABLE ON THEN THE RUBBER COVER OVER, I'VE DROPPED A BOLT INTO THERE, LUCKILY IT DIDN'T FALL ALL THE WAY AND I HAD A MAGNET BUT YOU NEVER KNOW.

27.Do 11-14 backwards, you should know how to do this by now.

28.You should have all the bolts from engine to trans back on now.The FMM bracket shouldn't be on yet though, the mount bracket itself should though. I don't believe the bracket in front of the axles fits on the mtx, I couldn't even get my mtx one on so no big deal with that.Put the starter back in.

29.Put the TB back on with the bracket. Put the cable back in. Put the nut back on.

30.Put the trans mount back on and jack it up into place putting the bolt back in. Now put the FMM bracket back on and put the mount bolt back in.

31.Put the axles into the wheel assembly and bolt it in. Put the other end into the trans.

32.For the kmember swap look somewhere else I don't know how to do this but I say go to a shop or something and have 2 pieces of angle iron welded on. This can be done AFTER the swap but don't drive too long or hard without it or you will ruin you other mounts.

33.Attach the bobble bracket to the top of the trans above where the axles go. They are 15mm. Attach the shifter cable bracket, I believe they are also 3 15mm bolts.

34.Go inside the car and pull off the center console, they're are phillips screws inside the center thing and by the cup holders and 4 10mm bolts on the inside. You can reach them from the back seat. There are plastic covers over it.Make sure not to budge the e brake. You will also need to move the atx shifter into like D. Pull it off from the back then lift it out from there.

35.There are 4 10 mm bolts holding down the shifter I believe. I'm not to sure on the shifter swap so you'll need to figure it out. Take off the nuts at the shifter cable grommet from the top. They're are 3 and a 10mm screw underneath the car.

36. After the shifter is in put the cables in and attach the grommet. Pop the bushings into place on the shifter. Put the clips on. Put the center console back on.

37. Place the shifter cables into the bracket and pull them forward. You can see how the clips go on.Pop the cables onto the shifter levers. The bigger one goes on the bigger lever.

38. Now you should have the trans on, axles in, shifter cables and clutch cables on, shifter should shift the gears, FMM on. Put the nuetral safety switch on, it goes on under where the battery tray sits on top of the trans. Wire it up(I'll get the wiring directions later).

39.Put the battery tray back in as well as the battery and control module.

40.Pop open the fluid cap and pour in the fluid till it over flows. I bent a thin pipe the fit in there.

41.Put the strut bolts back on. Put the tires back on.

42. Start the car, let it idle for a few. Pray that everything is ok.

43. Drive and think how you will never go back to atx. :D

If anyone wants to add something let me know, any who has pics that might help post them up.

Any questions while your swapping feel free to ask me.
Last edited by afireinside4848 on Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Image

- Right now im pushing just a lil over 300 HP, thinking about upgrading turbo charger and putting a 6spd tranny in - LMFAO

- Only took 4 transmissions to make me relize I need to take it easy cause its just a neon -

99 5 Spd Neon R/t - DD
2.4L Turbo Project Neon Soon Under Way

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Lackof
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Location: Jacksonville, FL

Post by Lackof » Sat Feb 23, 2008 4:28 pm

or you could just add this to the already swap thread.

afireinside4848
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Posts: 796
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:55 pm
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Post by afireinside4848 » Sat Feb 23, 2008 4:39 pm

or not
Image

- Right now im pushing just a lil over 300 HP, thinking about upgrading turbo charger and putting a 6spd tranny in - LMFAO

- Only took 4 transmissions to make me relize I need to take it easy cause its just a neon -

99 5 Spd Neon R/t - DD
2.4L Turbo Project Neon Soon Under Way

User avatar
fusion210
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Posts: 597
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:16 pm
Location: NC

Post by fusion210 » Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:40 pm

I'm with Skill. We can't have a bunch of mtx swap threads. They should be refined into one. I had no problems with the original thread when I did my mtx swap. Yours is pretty long, looks like a good effort, I'll have to give it a good look later.
ALSO GET THAT BLUE BOLT LOCKER STUFF(SOMEONE FILL ME IN ON THE NAME OF THIS).
Threadlocker. Locktite, whatever. I'm not sure if threadlocker is the actual name of it as opposed to the Locktite brand.

3.Using the 32mm take off the wheel axles nut(with a breaker bar). You will need the brakes applied. Take off the caps over the nuts first if there are any. You may not be able to get the axle out yet.

If you have steel wheels or wheels without the caps in the middle you can just do the nut while the wheel is on the ground. You can also use a screwdriver or other piece inserted into the vents of the rotor pushing against the caliper if you don't have any help.

afireinside4848
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Posts: 796
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:55 pm
Location: West Seneca

Post by afireinside4848 » Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:53 pm

ok well i havent seen a thourogh step by step one so I figured I'd write it up. Even with all the info and help I ran into trouble with the swp my first time.

I geuss if the admin wants to move it then they can.
Image

- Right now im pushing just a lil over 300 HP, thinking about upgrading turbo charger and putting a 6spd tranny in - LMFAO

- Only took 4 transmissions to make me relize I need to take it easy cause its just a neon -

99 5 Spd Neon R/t - DD
2.4L Turbo Project Neon Soon Under Way

User avatar
Lackof
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Posts: 2599
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 10:24 pm
Location: Jacksonville, FL

Post by Lackof » Sat Feb 23, 2008 7:39 pm

afireinside4848 wrote:ok well i havent seen a thourogh step by step one so I figured I'd write it up. Even with all the info and help I ran into trouble with the swp my first time.

I geuss if the admin wants to move it then they can.
You missed the point.
Regardless if there is a step by step how to, there was a thread started with info about the swap.
Honestly i don't give a damn.
I removed my info. (along with all my other how to's) because i refuse to support this site with any of my help anymore.
Not until vinny changes things.

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