How To: KSport Coil Over Suspension Install

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Daarkwind
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How To: KSport Coil Over Suspension Install

Post by Daarkwind » Fri Apr 06, 2007 6:08 pm

KSport Coilover Suspension Installation


First off, yes I know doing a suspension is quite simple in the 1g, but I wanted to pass along a few tips and tricks from my experience in just doing this install.

First thing to do is inspect your KSport suspension, mine came with M8 studs for the fronts instead of the factory M10 studs. This does not pose a major problem just the hassle of either going to Home Depot for nuts and washers or going to the local dealer for the nuts that are used on the rear studs. (Which happen to be M8) If you buy the Home Depot hardware use it on the rear mounts, because the washers will deform into the over sized holes and create a better chance of slippage.

Gather your tools: 10, 13, 15, 18, 19 and 21 mm sockets and wrenches. A good jack, not the flimsy thing in the trunk and jack stands. Think Safety! A good tape measure or better yet a set of calipers are going to be needed.

Start by removing the front struts. This is quite easy with impact tools but can be done by hand. Just don’t expect to break any speed records.
• Jack up and safely support the front end of the car
• Remove the front wheels
• Loosen the top mounting nuts on the strut tower, remove 3 of the 4
• Remove the nut holding the brake line to the strut***
• Remove both bolts and nuts in the lower mounting (where the strut and knuckle are joined)
• While holding the strut with one hand remove the last nut from the top mount and remove the strut.
• Repeat on the other side
Now the fun begins. Make sure that all friction nuts are loose on your new coil over suspension. Also make sure that you have the suspension set to the same height for both sides. The KSports us the bottom mount to change ride height so you want to start as close to even as possible. Then install the CO in this manner:
1. Insert the top studs into the upper strut mount and put one or more nuts onto the studs.
2. Run the nuts down to about 75% of their distance, this will help you have wiggle room.
3. Install the bottom mount onto the knuckle and insert the bolts
4. Put the nuts on hand tight only
5. Repeat on the other side
6. Install the front wheels using 3 lug nuts hand tight
7. Take the car off the jack stands and lower slowly making sure the camber adjustment is centered.
8. Tighten the upper mount nuts to spec.
9. Check your ride height. Yes the tires will not be perfect but this is the beginning.
10. This is where you measure either from the ground to the edge of the wheel well or from the upper lip of the rim to the same location.
11. Raise the car back up and adjust the ride height by removing the tires, removing the bolts and nuts on the lower mount and from the knuckle.
12. Turn the lower mount to move either up or down depending on your desired results. Use your tape measure or calipers to measure from the lower mount to the strut body to make sure the car is even.
13. Install the lower mount bolts and nuts to hand tight
14. Install the wheels with three lug nuts to hand tight
15. Lower the car and check your ride height.
16. If it is not where you want it repeat steps 11 – 15
17. If you are happy with the height then raise the car and remove the wheels. Then using the supplied wrenches to tighten the friction nuts on the bottom and top of the lower mount per specification.
18. Set your preload. KSport recommends hand tight on the bottom perch. I suggest hand tight plus 2 rotations. Again use your tape measure or caliper to make sure that both sides are even.
19. Tighten the lower mounting nuts and bolts to factory spec, put the wheels back on and do the back.
*** There is no provision for holding the brake cable to the strut. Feel free to zip tie or wire tie the line using the mounting hardware. There is no performance or safety issue with letting the line hang.

Doing the rears is no different than the fronts with the exception of the sway bar mount. It is a bit of a pain to work around but not horrible. Follow the same procedures as the fronts. You will end up lowering the back compared to the front. This is where it is very important to measure. If you go to low you can end up rubbing the tires on the fender inner lip.

After you have your new suspension in set both front and rear to 50% dampening. This is a good starting point for this suspension. It will be quite firm but very responsive.

Time for an alignment!!!!! Do not forget this part, it is very important! Find a shop that will give you multiple alignments for one price. Goodyear offers a lifetime alignment for about $200. This way after they set your car to factory angles you can fine tune your ride height. Yes you will have to do it again. This way you know for sure it is right where you want it and where the tires will not rub and the care rides exactly how you want it.

Take measurements before unbolting any thing and write them down. Either from the floor to the wheel well or the upper rim lip to the same location. Make your adjustments from the lower mount, tighten and enjoy.

Get the second alignment done and if they are reasonable people have them set the car to your own custom angles. I created my own after lots of experimentation during 3 race seasons and comparing tire wear to drivability. Yes my car is my daily driver and auto crosser.
Image
99 R/T .020 over / JE 10.5 / Eagle Rods / Fresh RT head / ECU / CAI / UO UDP / Long Tube header,/KSport coil over suspension/ Rota RB Wheels and a few other things.

The Lost Neon
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Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:10 am
Location: Nova Scotia

Post by The Lost Neon » Wed Apr 11, 2007 6:47 pm

So as far as the strut body adjustment, where are yours set for the front and rear? I was going to start with the fronts flush with the bottom and the rears somewhere around 3/4" to 1" below.

[edit] Never mind, just found your post here http://forum.1gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=477

thanks

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Daarkwind
1GN n00b
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:48 am

Post by Daarkwind » Sun Apr 15, 2007 12:14 pm

I have the fronts flush with the bottom of the housing and the rears at .970 extended below the housing.
Image
99 R/T .020 over / JE 10.5 / Eagle Rods / Fresh RT head / ECU / CAI / UO UDP / Long Tube header,/KSport coil over suspension/ Rota RB Wheels and a few other things.

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