How-To: 1st Gen SRT-4 Turbo kit

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99dohcneon
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Post by 99dohcneon » Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:58 pm

todd 11 wrote:is there any downside to removing the oil pressure switch?
Just not have the low oil light come on when your low
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Archametes
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Post by Archametes » Sun Apr 15, 2007 5:24 pm

But no one ever answered where the coolant return line should go ....?

-ed-
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Post by -ed- » Sun May 13, 2007 2:22 am

OK, so how much does this generally run a person?

Personally, I'm considering either a 2.4L N/A or the SRT swap..I'm also going to be swapping the ATX out of the car finally..
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Archametes
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Post by Archametes » Sun May 13, 2007 11:17 am

For the most part it depends on where you get your parts from.....

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Post by -ed- » Sun May 13, 2007 3:28 pm

I know this project isn't for a novice..I can do just about anything as long as I have all the right tools and instructions..But my DD is getting up there as far as miles go and I'd hate to get rid of it..So I'd like to rebuild the engine..and I thought as long as I'm taking the engine apart I might as well swap in a 2.4.

I dont have the tools or the experience to do this well...I need help doing this.. Is there anyone that would be willing to help me do the swap some weekend toward the end of Summer? I'd pay to have it done right..
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BlueR/T
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Post by BlueR/T » Fri Jun 08, 2007 9:10 am

Archametes wrote:But no one ever answered where the coolant return line should go ....?
X2?

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das2123
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Post by das2123 » Fri Jun 08, 2007 9:14 am

BlueR/T wrote:
Archametes wrote:But no one ever answered where the coolant return line should go ....?
X2?
MattDog wrote: Coolant Feed and Return Lines
There are two ways of doing this, Tee off the water lines or a combination of the water lines and down on the back of the block you can source the water. I just Tee’d off the water lines. The stock water lines are 5/8” and the SRT turbo coolant lines are 3/8”. There are no commonly available Tees for this that I could find. Don’t bother trying to make stuff out of copper fittings, been there done that and failed. The real solution is right at your local home depot in the indoor plumbing aisle. You want to find the “Watts” brass fittings in yellow/black bags. You need 4 ½” NPT by 5/8” hose barb fittings and 2 ½” NPT by 3/8” hose barb fittings. These fittings run just over $2 each. To connect all the fittings you want to pick up 2 ½” NPT Tee fittings. If you want they sell matching brass ones for $6 each or if your poor like most neon owners walk over to the other plumbing aisle and get the cast iron ¾”NPT fittings for $1 each. Be sure and pick up a lot of clamps. I used 6 smaller clamps on the 3/8” lines (2 on the steel tubes, 1 on the barb fitting) and 4 large clamps for the 5/8” water lines.
You may also want to consider using the steel SRT coolant lines that run around the block…
2003 SRT-4

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DOHCRT
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Post by DOHCRT » Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:50 pm

Archametes wrote:But no one ever answered where the coolant return line should go ....?
DOHCRT wrote:Attach the coolant feed line (the top line on the back of the turbo) to one of the heater hoses using a hose barb tee fitting.
Attach the coolant return line to where the coolant passage plug was behind cylinder two. You can do this by using a 1/4" NPT hose barb fitting.
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Post by ShelbyTurbo » Sun Jun 17, 2007 11:49 pm

A word on how the O2 sensor works.

The sensor does not pull Oxygen from the wire, it pulls oxygen through the top of the sensor where the wires enter the sensor.

A common problem with O2's is that this part of the O2 sensor gets clogged with dirt or rust, and the O2 dies.
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DOHCRT
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Post by DOHCRT » Mon Jun 18, 2007 12:21 pm

No, the sensor can operate in both ways. It can either pull oxygen through the wires or through the sensor housing. It depends on how it was made. That is why you should not solder the wires to lengthen them. The point of some applications pulling through the wires is to avoid the common problem of dirt, rust, and corrosion clogging the opening.
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neonracer89
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Post by neonracer89 » Sun Jul 01, 2007 4:13 am

So, how does one lengthen the wires then? Approximately how much should I save up before I even try this? I was thinking $1000.

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DOHCRT
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Post by DOHCRT » Sun Jul 01, 2007 4:33 am

The amount you spend truly depends on how cheap you get the parts for. I think its feasible to do it for around $1000, but plan to spend more so you don't come up short.
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neonracer89
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Post by neonracer89 » Sun Jul 01, 2007 4:37 am

So should I save up like 1500 then? That way if I need fittings and sensors etc, I have money, and if I don't need that stuff, I have money for a dyno tune? How much do those cost btw?

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Post by -ed- » Sun Jul 01, 2007 11:33 pm

depends on where you live....

Expect anywhere from $50-100 per hour!
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Post by 1fast2liter » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:50 am

some one asked were the coolant lines go.... it really don't matter wich heater core line is used for what but their side by side... on the srt4 turbo theirs to banjo bolts one on top of another.. the one on the top is the in and the one on the bottom of it is the out.... remember the very top one is the oil in and the very bottom one is the oil drain.....usally the one to the right is used to go into the turbo and the other to go out. I am haveing a brain fart today... the neon lines eaither go side to side or one on top of the other... if their 1 on top of the other use the one on top in to the turbo and the bottom one as a drain for the cooland.
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