How-To: $20 catch can with drain

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racer12306
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How-To: $20 catch can with drain

Post by racer12306 » Wed Feb 14, 2007 5:30 pm

Catch Can System
What you need
- 1 campbell hausfield water filter for a compressed air system ~$12, available at walmart, autozone and probably anywhere that sells air compressor parts
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- 2 of these, cant think of a good name for them but i think you know what im talking about
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- 4 feet of 3/8" fuel line
- 4 feet of 1/2" heater hose (since mine was for a 2gn, double check the size of the nipple on the intake manifold)
- now the special part: a piece of thin stainless (or aluminum or regular steel) steel.
- a tap (measure the id of the holes on then base your tap size on that)
- a small drill
- a little bit of loctite so you dont have to tighten the screws up too much and risk stripping the threads in the hole. i actually did a little bit on one hole but i put some loctite in there and its been good for ~30000 miles.
- teflon tape for the threads
- a few zip ties to keep the hose in place
- 4 small hose clamps
- for boosted situations you probably want a check valve somewhere in the line

i think the following pics will tell the rest of the story. its really quite simple. you dont have to run it so long but it is the nicest looking way, in my opinion. The 3/8" hose goes from the PCV to the can and the 1/2" hose goes from the can to the intake manifold

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as far as i know, no one else does it this way. most probably dont have the tools to do it.

you can tell which bolt to pull out to mount the piece of stainless in the last pic.

here is a pic of what the piece of stainless looks like when finished.
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one more pic of the mounting (sorry its a little blurry)
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i keep the original pcv hose and a screw driver in the trunk of my car just incase something goes wrong with this setup, but nothing has happened in ~30000 miles, i just like to be prepared.

You may run into a problem with the hoses not being for vacuum use. (See below)

you might also want to get a new o-ring for the filter. it is the following part number: Help! part# 90441. its available at most auto parts stores. this o-ring likes oil much better than the one that comes on the filter. i havent put that o-ring on yet but i might in the future.

if you take the bowl off of the filter and then unscrew the stone filter there is a little black plastic piece, ditch that. then put the stone filter back on. i have cleaned the stone filter a few times with carb cleaner. to clean it i just unscrew the filter and then spray the carb cleaner so that it goes from the inside out, kind of like how you clean a K&N air filter.


ALTERNATIVE: The heater hose and fuel line are starting to be affected by the heat and vacuum. So I have ordered new hose from McMaster-Carr. The new hose is actual vacuum rated hose so it should hold up. I will post when I receive the new hose to confirm it fits right and such.

Part Numbers
54605K29 - $0.87/ft
5201K14 - $3.27/ft

You need to decide how many feet you need. I ordered 5ft of each to have a little left over. There is another hose that is $2.55/ft but has a much larger bend radius than the one above, but if you are interested the part number is: 5279K213.

UPDATE 8/27/07
I was looking through the latest JEG'S catalog and noticed an Air Oil Separator kit. It is very similar to the $20 catch can, but looks a little nicer. It is $45, so its a little pricey. But it does come with a mounting bracket and the hose barb fittings. It does look like it has a nice little drain.

For those who are interested the part number is 555-52205.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... _396863_-1



Drain System
This is made with the help of Rj-copeland from srtforums. He gave me the instructions and the parts list and I put together the how-to with pics. It is a nice little drain for your $20 catch can so that you don’t have to remove the bowl every time you need to empty it.

Please read all instructions first before assembling.


Materials needed:
- Qty: 2, Pt# A-734, 1/4 X 1/8 FIP Reducing ($1.90)
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- Qty: 2, Pt# A-85, 1/8 I.D. Hose Adapter, 1/4 MIP Adapter ($2.20)
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- Qty: 1, Pt# SVEB10 1/4 O.D. Clear Vinyl tubing 10ft length. ($1.50) {Can be replaced with Windsheild Washer tubing or simular)
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*- Qty: 1, Pt# 61103 or 61105, 1/8 NPT Pet Cock (Usually used for replacing radiator Pet Cock)
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*- Qty: 1, Pt 2044-A, 4 Way Tool (removes the pressure release valve in tire stems and in the cannister)
- Thread sealer (teflon tape or paste)

* Denotes parts at AutoZone but you can get them at almost any car parts store.

All prices are estimates. The items without an * can be purchased at home depot. If you don’t have a home depot in your area then the part numbers may not apply to you. Maybe Rj-copeland can chime in with other part numbers if he has them.



First we must make sure all parts work together:

1. Using the 4 Way Tool remove the valve stem from the bowl on the filter assembly.
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2. Screw one Hose Adapter (A-85) into the FIP Reducing.
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3. Screw the assembly from step 2 onto the threads of the bowl.
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4. Place the Filter Assembly in the location where you will have it mounted. Attach the tubing (SVEB10) to the Hose Adapter and run the line to a location of your desire. When routing, keep the hose away from moving parts and direct contact with hot engine parts. Make sure you have secure places to zip-tie the hose. Mark and cut the hose to your desired length.
5. Attach the remaining Hose Adapter to the open end of the hose as in step 4.
6. Screw the remaining FIP Reducing to the Hose Adapter as in step 2.
7. Screw the Pet Cock (61103) onto the FIP Reducing.
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Heres a pic of the finished product out of the car. Your finished product will look different depending on where you run the hose.
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Now that you have made sure all parts work together and fit. Remove the parts one at a time and thread seal each connection. To secure and seal the hose onto the Hose Adapter use zip-ties to lock in place. I strongly recommend that you put the hose adapter and the FIP reducer together first and get them tight and then put that assembly onto the threads of the bowl.

**Caution: Do not overtighten the FIP Reducing onto the Bowl. The threads strip very easily.



Now I went above and beyond what were in his instructions. I have a pet peeve with things not looking professional, imo zipties are not professional. Others may not have a problem with them so its up to you.

I took a chunk of aluminum that my dad had laying around his shop and milled it down. Drilled and tapped two 3/8-16 holes for bolts and one 1/4-20 hole for the set screw. Here are a few pics of what I did.

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since you are adding 2 to 3 feet of 1/4 inch tubing. thats between 4.5 and 7 cubic inches of volume (i think i did that right). more capacity = you dont have to drain it as often. it has been on my car a little longer than this how to has been up. so far i have no accumulation in the can. im guessing its all in the drain hose. might be able to go an entire oil change without draining the can.


Disclaimer: I don't take responsibility for your any problems or damage that could occur by performing this install.
Last edited by racer12306 on Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Vinny
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Post by Vinny » Thu Feb 15, 2007 11:06 pm

Good how-to, thanks for posting!

This is an emissions-legal catch can setup, and it may or may not work on turbocharged cars. A non-emissions compliant option would be something like a Moroso vented catch can, which could also be duplicated on a DIY basis.
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racer12306
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Post by racer12306 » Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:37 am

So, this would be emissions legal. Why, because its fully contained and not vented to the atmosphere?
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chrono_killa
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Post by chrono_killa » Fri Feb 16, 2007 2:29 pm

wat r catch cans for?
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Vinny
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Post by Vinny » Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:28 pm

racer12306 wrote:So, this would be emissions legal. Why, because its fully contained and not vented to the atmosphere?
Yes.

chrono_killa wrote:wat r catch cans for?
Basically a catch can is a container to hold oil placed in-line with the PCV system. The oil that will sometimes naturally be pushed out the crankcase breather on the valve cover will be caught in the can instead of being directed into the intake manifold.

A vented catch can is generally the preferred method for performance, as the oil vapor added to the intake air will lower the effective octane rating of the fuel.
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Post by 95Neonon18s » Thu Mar 15, 2007 1:09 am

im gonna do this
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racer12306
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Post by racer12306 » Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:51 am

cool, let us know how it turns out.

might want to start up a project log for your car if you havent yet, and start documenting everything.
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Post by APN » Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:55 am

I don't know the name :cry:

What size is the thread?
#64
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racer12306
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Post by racer12306 » Thu Mar 15, 2007 11:16 am

it is the standard size. i got mine from walmart.

i believe the size is 3/8" NPT

more importantly you need to make sure that they are the same size as the water filter
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neonjr
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Post by neonjr » Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:24 pm

definately need to have pictures re-hosted
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racer12306
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Post by racer12306 » Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:12 pm

i'll take care of that tonite
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Post by racer12306 » Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:09 pm

all fixed
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