2 tips to run cooler

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purplehayz
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Post by purplehayz » Thu Aug 23, 2007 1:49 pm

I give up. Through my own experience it is more efficient, maybe in conjunction with all other mods done but I run 110% cooler then the stock 2.0L motor. Concidering I've got a high output 2.4L with nearly 300 hp red lining at 9200 rpm I must have gotten something right. Like I say maybe it's in conjunction with everything else but regardless I've got double the hp of a stock DOHC almost 2000 rpm more and I'm cooler. Everyone going on about thermal efficiancy okay you're ritgh but the more you build up a motor the more you must compensate. This is where such as weight and ballancing and such. And I've found a dyno to rent give me a few days and i'll post results.
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DOHCRT
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Post by DOHCRT » Thu Aug 23, 2007 5:12 pm

You're running 110% cooler than a stock engine? Does that mean your block is frozen? I don't want my engine to run cold. An engine that cant meet its proper operating temp wont be very efficient. You cant ignore the engineering behind engine design when building one.
purplehayz wrote:Concidering I've got a high output 2.4L with nearly 300 hp red lining at 9200 rpm I must have gotten something right.
I would love to see a dyno chart of a 2.4 revving to 9,200 RPM. Please post it. :wink:
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Tyler
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Post by Tyler » Thu Aug 23, 2007 10:07 pm

DOHCRT wrote:
purplehayz wrote:Concidering I've got a high output 2.4L with nearly 300 hp red lining at 9200 rpm I must have gotten something right.
I would love to see a dyno chart of a 2.4 revving to 9,200 RPM. Please post it. :wink:

me too!
97 sohc- 'Victoria'
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fusion210
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Post by fusion210 » Thu Aug 23, 2007 10:41 pm

purplehayz wrote:All that BS by you
No you don't. Go dance in a fire wearing an aluminum suit and see how you do. kthx

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jrumann59
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Post by jrumann59 » Thu Aug 23, 2007 10:47 pm

Running too cool is bad trust me when I had the wrong T-stat in my neon I was getting 20mpg.
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purplehayz
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Post by purplehayz » Fri Aug 24, 2007 10:57 pm

My bad that's 10% cooler not 110% --2 much coffee spilt on keyboaard -- sticky

My Dyno run is slated for next week, Results will be posted believe me the car goes like a bat out of hell.

The hole reason she's fully sponcered. All the hard work is paying off.
Happy reven this weekend! :D
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I8yourVtec
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Re: 2 tips to run cooler

Post by I8yourVtec » Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:46 pm

purplehayz wrote:To all of u with a plastic intake manifold, get rid of it. go 2 scrapper and find the aluminum ones. Standerd on r/t and expressos. intake runs 20% cooler and can be pollished like glass.

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Excellant how-to @ http://www.angelfire.com/space/neon/manifold.html

2nd modify your rad mouts I saw it on another site and it gives 1 more inch for air to travel infront of motor.Remove mount pivot 45 deg and cut excess pic will follow I've got to take 1
Wait..plasic intakes are on a SOHC not DOHC..so how would that work? If someone already answered this sorry, i see X's on all but like 3 posts.

Now, wouldnt it be simpler just to get an aluminum SOHC intake manifold for a SOHC?

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Post by keeders08 » Wed Aug 06, 2008 8:17 am

I def. would like to see the whole rad mounts thing... u know...a picture? tee hee!
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cachanilla86
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Post by cachanilla86 » Wed Aug 06, 2008 1:06 pm

This is my experience on trying to run a cooler engine:

In mexicali, summer temperatures exceed 120ºf sometimes up to 126ºf, neons are prone to overheating, thanks to badly designed radiator, the water outlets are so close, half of the radiator is useless, water cant circulate through the entire radiator. I went to a radiator shop, they made the upper tank of metal to put the outlet on the oposite side...things are very different, now the engine runs "normally" at +/- 200ºf. I dont use a thermostat on summer, only during winter. Oh! Now I can use the A/C, whereas other 1GNs CAN'T
(sorry for my "engrish", i hope you understand what i mean)


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PorterzCustomz
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Post by PorterzCustomz » Fri Aug 22, 2008 11:43 am

6(sic)6 wrote:^How can you claim an aluminum intake mani vs a plastic one runs "cooler" The aluminum heat-soaks like a motherfucker in about 5 minutes, Plastic one never does.....



ps, you can port the plastic one also.....

I couldn't agree more; it's pretty obvious. Stick your hand on the plastic manifold once the car gets hot then try it with the aluminum one :lol:

I am thinking about porting my plastic mani but it looks rather a pain to get it off, what has to be removed, is it as big of a job as it looks?
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custom95neon
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Post by custom95neon » Thu May 13, 2010 7:38 pm

To all of u with a plastic intake manifold, get rid of it. go 2 scrapper and find the aluminum ones. Standerd on r/t and expressos. intake runs 20% cooler and can be pollished like glass,

:bs2: :bs:
Last edited by custom95neon on Thu May 13, 2010 7:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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custom95neon
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Post by custom95neon » Thu May 13, 2010 7:42 pm

You're running 110% cooler than a stock engine? Does that mean your block is frozen? I don't want my engine to run cold. An engine that cant meet its proper operating temp wont be very efficient. You cant ignore the engineering behind engine design when building one.


lol thats funny :laughing8:

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BaLLisTiK
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Post by BaLLisTiK » Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:50 pm

last post on May 13 2010, but I just got to read some of this..

Plastic may run cooler, but I'll keep my Aluminum on my car. (expresso DOHC) and about the 20mpg because your car was running too cool, I had the same problem when I was using no thermostat, BUT, 20mpg is the downfall. My car was noticably faster. How? PCM. Senses everything! Senses if it's too cold, it injects more fuel, which ignites, which produces fire, which causes heat. Colder your engine, more fuel gets burned, more power. Don't believe me? lol then Don't. Test it yourself, you'll see. I did anyways.
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