long post,
I have been using the 96 as parts for my fathers 99 since I have gotten my 2gn I have pretty much parted the car out for future repair parts for my father. my question is I am thinking about using the engine to run a generator. I am trying to figure out what parts of the wiring harness can be eliminated. I have the harness from the whole car. I do not plan on using a transmission, just direct driving the generating unit. my main reason to use the neon motor is its cheap (already got it) its quiet (quiet muffler, no ricer fart cans ) and good on gas, engine will pretty much be idling so it is better on gas than a standard smaller Briggs powered unit yet producing way more power.
heres my plan so far.. I am using this for a backup generator.
I am going to weld up a chassis for holding the engine using the factory mounting points, there will also be a brace off of the generating unit. once I get the electronics straightened out and the engine running I will use radiator from the neon for cooling and mounting the setup on airbags inside a small soundproofed shed with the exhaust and intake on the side away from the cabin. this setup i believe would be very quiet (other than the ticking ) and vibration free. I also will be using the unit to charge up a battery bank so I will be able to charge those up and run the cabin with the generator off for long periods of time.
if I can not straighten out the wiring using the neon pcm I am thinking about running it with megasquirt.
engine harness question.
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I would have to think about what parts of the harness but I have to say a megasquirt powered back up generator would be an awesome project! I love the idea!!
1997 Plymouth Neon Sport - Daily Driver
1998 Dodge Neon EX - Turbo, MegaSquirt
1998 Dodge Neon EX - Turbo, MegaSquirt
Bzevey wrote:Its just....JUST!!! WTF IS JUX???
JUST because you're deaf doesn't mean you're fucking blind
and that goes to anyone
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to run off the stock pcm yuo'd need ckp, cmp, ect, b1s1, b1s2, injectors, map, iat, coil, alt, starter and i believe thats it. can eliminate evap, knock, oil psi, egr etc
Infil <--click
AMSOIL, Technical Auto Group, S.I. J&V Tools
Fast Times Performance 2002 Subaru WRX 2.5, 11.936@113.18
95 All Motor Neon
13.958@96.99
SOHC - ALL MOTOR - STOCK BLOCK
AMSOIL, Technical Auto Group, S.I. J&V Tools
Fast Times Performance 2002 Subaru WRX 2.5, 11.936@113.18
95 All Motor Neon
13.958@96.99
SOHC - ALL MOTOR - STOCK BLOCK
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well, its been a while! getting started on this.
what she looked like when I dragged her back to the cabin. I got the left side dissassembled (pulled cv shaft and all that that includes). also taking some parts for my fathers 99.
I am keeping the doors, glass, lights and obviously the drivetran, but if anyone needs any thing PM me here or on 2gn prices will be low (pretty much to cover the packaging and shipping) I will make a post in the for sale thread also.
what she looked like when I dragged her back to the cabin. I got the left side dissassembled (pulled cv shaft and all that that includes). also taking some parts for my fathers 99.
I am keeping the doors, glass, lights and obviously the drivetran, but if anyone needs any thing PM me here or on 2gn prices will be low (pretty much to cover the packaging and shipping) I will make a post in the for sale thread also.
- metal_gear_jon
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Wow this sounds really neat!!! If it was me I would just leave out the a/c clutch circuit and power steering switch. I would leave everything else intact because with a stock pcm, I wouldn't want to set any check engine lights. Sounds like you're keeping the cat so leave the o2's alone. I would even use the stock cluster to monitor it.
It'll be easier just to cut the harness at the firewall, keep all the wires from the cluster to the engine side, and splice them back together. Only things I can think of that you need to rig up is power to the fuel pump from the PDC, fuel lines (are you using the stock tank?), and jumping the neutral safety switch or clutch switch. You could leave the evap system out and just plug the line on the tank and leave the purge soleniod unplugged.
Keep the battery temp sensor to help the pcm to charge the battery proper. Anything else on the engine side you don't need just unplug and ziptie together. Cut all of the body stuff out and leave the grounds alone. Can't wait to see the finished product!!!
It'll be easier just to cut the harness at the firewall, keep all the wires from the cluster to the engine side, and splice them back together. Only things I can think of that you need to rig up is power to the fuel pump from the PDC, fuel lines (are you using the stock tank?), and jumping the neutral safety switch or clutch switch. You could leave the evap system out and just plug the line on the tank and leave the purge soleniod unplugged.
Keep the battery temp sensor to help the pcm to charge the battery proper. Anything else on the engine side you don't need just unplug and ziptie together. Cut all of the body stuff out and leave the grounds alone. Can't wait to see the finished product!!!
'98 Alpine Green Coupe turbo fodder
^ Not mine...
http://www.tristateneons.org/ never forget...
Have a lol
Feeding the trolls since '07
^ Not mine...
http://www.tristateneons.org/ never forget...
Have a lol
Feeding the trolls since '07
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Thanks for the info! I haven't decided on things like the fuel tank yet, I will more than likely use it. as for the exhaust system I may be making up something one off because I am trying to fit it in a smaller shed, but I do want it quiet so I am going to keep it about the same length with a quiet muffler. as for instrumentation I was thinking of a few cheap aftermarket gauges and possibly getting a scangauge and mounting that in the cabin since it will be able to start from inside. (the stock cluster shows very little)
and I dont have to worry about ac because I didn't have it! no option car!
and I dont have to worry about ac because I didn't have it! no option car!