A TRUE SRT SWAP

Do you have a project going or will you be starting a project here very soon and just want to keep a log of everything you and when? Share with everyone every step of the way what sort of progress you are making on your project.
wvneon98
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A TRUE SRT SWAP

Post by wvneon98 » Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:41 pm

THE PROJECT LOG

This is for everyone who wants to perform the swap as well. I am asked all the time how to so I figure this would be the best option.

Now At this point I have decided officially I am going SRT with my beloved neon. From here on out I am going to be as detailed as I can so if anyone else wishes to do the swap as well they will have a how to starting with the guage cluster....

This is what you will see when you first remove the old guage cluster....

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You will knowtest 2 things when you go to put in the SRTs first its to long and second its to tall. To fix this problem you will first need to remove the bottom clips on the cluster to make it fit into the dash. Then you need to cut the dash to fit its length (be careful in doing so if you plan to ever mount a tweeter in the factory location again.

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Now if you plan on going complete SRT with interior wiring as well you will want to pick up the combination switchs and steering wheel trim. These drop right into the factory location with no modification at all and at least in my opinion look great. Once in you should have a look similer to this....


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Now to make it cleaner I also ran the wiring through the dash. This also helps to make it easy to get to all locations the plugs need to reach. In doing this I also had to trim some more of the dash to get the plug to the gauge cluster through.

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At this point you will also want to use a SRT ignition. And get a large rubber washer to put around the ignition the purpose will be to keep the SKIM transmitter in place so you will want one with large sides the one I used was about 3inches in total diameter.

Now for the clockspring, defrost switch, wiper blades, heater blower motor, HVAC and resistor block....

CLOCKSPRING using a 1st gen wheel
20BK/RD to 22BK/RD HORN RELAY CONTROL

Defrost switch
14BK/WT to 12BK/WT REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER SWITCH OUTPUT
14BK/RD to 12BK/RD FUSED B(+)
22WT to 20WT FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN)
22BK/LG to 22BK/LG GROUND
22OR to 20OR PANEL LAMPS DRIVER

Wiper blades use the exact same color wires however the 1st gen is grounded in the cowl area.

16BK GROUND
16DG/YL WIPER PARK SWITCH SENSE
16DB FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-ACC)
16BR/WT WIPER LOW SPEED OUTPUT
V4 16RD/YL WIPER HIGH SPEED OUTPUT

Heater blower motor
14DG to 14DG FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN)
14BK/TN to 14BK/TN BLOWER MOTOR HIGH DRIVER

HVAC
22OR to 22OR PANEL LAMPS DRIVER
22DB/YL to 22DB/YL (RHD) MODE SWITCH OUTPUT
14TN to 14TN BLOWER MOTOR LOW DRIVER
14LG to 14LG BLOWER MOTOR M1 DRIVER
14LB to 14LB BLOWER MOTOR M2 DRIVER
14BK/TN to 14BK/TN BLOWER MOTOR HIGH DRIVER
14BK/VT to 14BK/VT GROUND

Resistor block
14TN to 14TN BLOWER MOTOR LOW DRIVER
14BK/TN to 14BK/TN BLOWER MOTOR HIGH DRIVER
14LB to 14LB BLOWER MOTOR M2 DRIVER
Blank spot
14LG to 14LG BLOWER MOTOR M1 DRIVER

Now that you have finished wiring up the dash it is time to move onto the doors. The first thing that you will see is that SRT clip will not fit through the opening. We will need to fix this by trimming the excess. Unfortunately I don't have a before pic.

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From here I then then spliced the wiring for the mirrors...
On the right door you will do power wires LG/BK and WT/BK on the first gen to YL on the SRT
Horizontal motor WT/YL to YL/WT
Vertical motor YL to DB/WT

and on the left side you will do power wires LG/BK and WT/BK to YL
Horizontal motor YL/BK to WT/YL
Vertical motor DB/WT to WT/BK

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and as you can see in this picture the movement switch simply bolts right in

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From there I moved on to the door locks splicing wires at the door switch
Right side will be unlock PK/BK to PK/VT and lock will be OR/BK to OR/BK
Left side will be unlock PK/BK to PK/BK and lock will be OR/BK to OR/BK

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And again I just used the SRT lock/unlock switch (as you can see in the pic above with the movement switch) but you can only put one screw in and you will have to check the allignment to make sure you can use the unlock position...

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As for the windows I did not get a pic of the connector however you will need to splice...
Right side down VT to VT and up BR to BR.
Left side down WT to WT/LB and up LB to LB

and again I simply used the SRT switch however as you will see they do not fit into the switch holder and a custom one will need to be made.

Now everything else here is plug in play assuming you are using a plastic tank (I would also recommend upgrading fuel pump at this time. I went with a Walbro 255 Fuel Pump) with the exception of the taillights. All we need to do here is match Wire to Wire colors are identical)

Now that we are done with the interior it is time to button it back up. I also took the time here to redo my carpet and upgrade to SRT ACR seats.

I never would have thought this stuff was any good.

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Ok time to move onto the engine bay...

First thing we must to is pull the motor and extra wiring (if you haven't already) This is also when I took the time to clean and repaint. Also you will want to add a heat shield of some kind to your brake and fuel lines.

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Now that we have done this you will want to grind off the bobble strut mount. And put in the wiring. Only a few changes need to be made here.

Turn signals
Left
18 LG to 18LG/OR LEFT TURN SIGNAL
18BK/YL to 18BK/YL HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
18BK to 18BK (2.4L TURBO) GROUND
Right
18TN to 18TN/RD RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
18BK/YL to 18BK/YL HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
18BK to 18BK (2.4L TURBO) GROUND

REVERSE SWITCH 1ST GEN
20VT/BK to 18VT/BK
20VT to 18WT

Also the SRT horn is on the left and the windshield washer fluid is on the right. To solve this and keep it simple move the horn over and extend the wiring to the washer fluid reservoir.

Now that all that is out of the way it is time to move onto the mechanical aspect of the build.

Here you will need a SRT engine, 2.4 motor mount adaptor and I would recommend race inserts for your motor mounts.

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Now lets put it in.

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Now before you put the transmission up I would recomend using a clutch and set of axles (I went with a Clutchmasters FX400 (Stage IV) with DSS stage 3 axles)

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Now that that is done it is time to move onto the radiator. I would advise a bigger then factory set up (I went with Mishimoto Radiator and fans the fans were a must as you can see in the pics)

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Now it is time to install your intercooler and piping (I went with a Mishimoto intercooler with 3" piping which forced me to cut my bumper but your may very).

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Now I would install a oil catch can (I used Modern performance) but it is not necessary. Go ahead and hook up your vacuum lines and start her up.

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Now you think your done. That is till you try and shut the hood and realize it doesn't clear your new engine. But this is a easy fix.

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Now clean up the cuts, clear off the tack, repaint, close the hood, and put on your bumper cover...

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Good as new.

Now from here on out I this is simply what I have done to my ride but isnt something you would have to do...

I feel that the number one thing that is overlooked with upgrades is stopping. I went with Russell braided break lines with Sportstop front and rear drilled and slotted. Also took the time here to get new calibers and paint them.

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As you can see in the last pic I also took this time to upgrade to BC Coilover Suspension along w/Vibrant Polished Front & Rear Strut Bar & Prothane Bushings.

Also I am upgrading to a 3" exhaust and to meet WV regulations including a muffler.

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Def will have lots more to come!
Becoming a true 2 door SRT4 check the log for details!

wvneon98
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Location: fairmont, wv

Post by wvneon98 » Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:43 pm

Def excited about this So I thought I would share!
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Can you guess whats next?
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Becoming a true 2 door SRT4 check the log for details!

wvneon98
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Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:23 pm
Location: fairmont, wv

Post by wvneon98 » Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:50 pm

Def excited about this So I thought I would share!
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Can you guess whats next?
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Becoming a true 2 door SRT4 check the log for details!

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Ianguilly
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Post by Ianguilly » Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:33 pm

Very nice work keep it up, be interested in how this one looks done.
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-Neon #3 1999 Dodge Neon R/T, Flame Red, DOHC MTX, Goodies, "Christine X2"

-Neon #6 95 NYG sport coupe SOHC MTX, 1 0f only 527
jamieely wrote: There are 2 kinds of people here, those with coupes, and then the other guys. If srt4s were coupes I would have one.

wickedgoodneon
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Re: A TRUE SRT SWAP

Post by wickedgoodneon » Fri Jan 07, 2011 7:19 pm

wvneon98 wrote:Image
Nice Nails!!! But more seriously keep up the good work. looks really good

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metal_gear_jon
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Post by metal_gear_jon » Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:24 pm

Wow, that's great progress. Keep it up.

1gnr/t will probably steal your photos for his "swap".
'98 Alpine Green Coupe turbo fodder
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^ Not mine...

http://www.tristateneons.org/ never forget...

Have a lol

Feeding the trolls since '07

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Ianguilly
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Post by Ianguilly » Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:43 pm

metal_gear_jon wrote:1gnr/t will probably steal your photos for his "swap".
his Swap??? i did this swap!!!! :lol: I have piics that look scary similar.
Image
-Neon #3 1999 Dodge Neon R/T, Flame Red, DOHC MTX, Goodies, "Christine X2"

-Neon #6 95 NYG sport coupe SOHC MTX, 1 0f only 527
jamieely wrote: There are 2 kinds of people here, those with coupes, and then the other guys. If srt4s were coupes I would have one.

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BaLLisTiK
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Post by BaLLisTiK » Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:21 pm

Sweet shit!
boostless_98 wrote:I want to hear wat everyone has to say on the idea of right hand drive neon conversion. I know it can be gotten from australia.
Ianguilly wrote:Just drive from the passenger side.

wvneon98
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Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:23 pm
Location: fairmont, wv

Post by wvneon98 » Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:00 pm

Thanks everyone

Soo I made the drive down to NC yesterday at the risk of my own and my friends life but I came back with the prize....

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.... A complete SRT dash (everything is there from the metal frame work forward), heat/ac unit, steering wheel (w column), and wiper motor.

Not to bad for $380 if I do say so myself.
Becoming a true 2 door SRT4 check the log for details!

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INVUJerry
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Post by INVUJerry » Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:57 pm

How long have you been at this project anyway?
2005 Neon SXT Black - SOLD
1998 Neon Coupe - SOLD
2004 Neon SRT-4 - 13.9@102
1995 Neon ACR NYG Sedan - 12.5:1 SOHC coming
1996 ACR Sedan - Koni yellows, stock as hell
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Free Philly

wvneon98
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Post by wvneon98 » Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:03 pm

The complete SRT conversion project about 1yr (mostly spent sitting waiting for the funds to cover)
Becoming a true 2 door SRT4 check the log for details!

Bumpin
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Post by Bumpin » Mon Jan 10, 2011 4:38 pm

I crave cock!

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laneholt
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Post by laneholt » Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:09 pm

Bumpin wrote:piece o' shit neon.
Why in the fuck don't you go away?
Diane Sox wrote:I don't know all the keys to success, but the key to failure is trying to please everybody.
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1952 Chevrolet Sport Coupe
1998 Toyota Avalon XLS
2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
2009 Dodge Avenger SXT

http://www.killermopars.com/index.html

srt4eh
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Post by srt4eh » Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:25 pm

Bumpin wrote:piece o' shit neon.
original
98 Neon R/T, 00 Neon, 06 Jeep GC SRT-8
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wvneon98
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Post by wvneon98 » Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:39 pm

wow Im upset now I should just quit someone just told my my car is shit..... ROFL my guess is he is one of 3

1) Honda owner
2) v8 owner or wannabe
3) lonely guy who needs some excitement in his life and thinks he's going to get it by pissing people off.

Sorry buddy at this point I own a SRT-4 (rofl always wanted to use that a a defense) In all seriousness tho its people with your thoughts that I enjoy the most... I get your money at the end of the line.
Becoming a true 2 door SRT4 check the log for details!

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