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Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 11:02 pm
by saxy89
weatherdan822 wrote:to answer several questions at once, by launching it...i mean holding it in drive with my feet on the gas and brake then punching the gas and removing the brake at green. My air filter is brand new when i took it to the track. and my RT's are in the .2-.3 average range
unless ur runnin a pro tree try lettin off the break as soon as u see the 3rd yellow.

also afx makes a performance computer for automatics. i know there expensive but maybe u can find one used.

http://www.howellautomotive.com/index.a ... tegory=215

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:40 am
by Low-Speed
saxy89 wrote:
weatherdan822 wrote:to answer several questions at once, by launching it...i mean holding it in drive with my feet on the gas and brake then punching the gas and removing the brake at green. My air filter is brand new when i took it to the track. and my RT's are in the .2-.3 average range
unless ur runnin a pro tree try lettin off the break as soon as u see the 3rd yellow.

also afx makes a performance computer for automatics. i know there expensive but maybe u can find one used.

http://www.howellautomotive.com/index.a ... tegory=215
And that will generally net you R/T's in the range he is in, unless you're deep staged, in which case you'll have poor E.T.'s to match slightly better R/T's.

Generally, you'll leave somewhere after the 2nd yellow goes off, but before the 3rd yellow comes on. That's about a .250 range. And, it won't help his times any to do so, so getting his launch down is irrelevant to the issue at hand.

Good info on the Auto PCM.

As for the MSD coil, he has it, he might as well use it until it fails. I know people using them with over 50K miles on them. I would say it's no better than the Factory piece, but generally no worse. So if you have it, leave it until it fails. Why spend money that isn't needed?

Again, I recommend new factory style wires. You can get a really good set from Autolite at Advance Auto or Autozone. They're around $29/set, and are of exceptional quality. Come with Dielectric grease already in them, though I recommend a little bit more. That WILL help his performance, as the typical MSD/Crane/Taylor/etc., aftermarket type wire will have a lot of EMI that affects the electronics in the car, and therefore harms the performance generally.

Also, Bosch plugs are notorious for having some issues. A stock set of Champion plugs will run him less than $10. If I were the OP, I'd gap them out to the factory gap though. Most are going to be tighter. You'll want factory gap, + or - .002. Slightly more open will provide a bit more torque generally, as you have a wider flame-front, though it's not exceptionally critical with our combustion chamber design. Neither is indexing, for that matter.

But anyways, those 2 items should help his performance somewhat, and aren't really expensive. Beyond that, he's looking at $$ to increase performance.

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:28 am
by racer12306
meh, I like leaving on the first yellow. ;)

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:22 pm
by INVUJerry
Pretty much, you want to work on your launch first, then the light will come naturally to you, since you wont have to worry about it as bad. The beginning of the summer I was re-learning my 98. I had r/t's of 1.0 or worse. The last time I was at the track, I got a .016 light.