doing a SRT4 front brake conversion

1badassneon · Post by **1badassneon** » Thu May 01, 2008 6:18 pm

havings some issuesss.
here is what i have posted in another web board.

Well This is what i have found out all ready.

First it is a PITA!!!!!

You need to grind the hell out of the knuckles to make it fit.
Alignment as far as the toe... o my you need to cut off 1/2 to an inch of the inner tie rod to get it to turn in. I found out it is bottoming out in the tie rod end.

First gen brake lines is the only way to go the SRT 4 brake lines are WAY to short.
Pictures are soon.

update...
well i have no brake pedal... and well i'm putting on the srt4 brake lines... and i need to get a 90 degree fitting to use them.... ot attach to the brake line. i will see how this works.

out to get the part tonight... and install wens night

Ah………………..
My god.
The brakes are to the floor, switch the master cylinder, and bleed the system way to many times.

I was talking with my master tech, and the way it looks is the issue since I put it on is, there is an air leak in the system. It looks like the bolts for the calipers are the issue. So ordered from the dodge dealer today will be in tomorrow and will try to install new bolts and see if it changes anything.

I switched to the SRT4 brake lines, and it did not change a thing. The pedal is dropping, if you pump it, it will hold half way and the brakes stop when you are at the floor… but not much pressure.

So I’m super super frustrated.

She is still sitting on a lift, and still needs to be aligned.

The good news is I have my bumper back from being painted and it looks sweet.
Bad is Carlisle is next weekend and I’m now under the gun.

DOHCRT · Post by **DOHCRT** » Thu May 01, 2008 6:44 pm

1badassneon wrote:You need to grind the hell out of the knuckles to make it fit.

You cannot grind the knuckles to make them fit. Its a machined surface, it has to be milled to a certain width. Did you do any reading on this prior to doing it?

There are different knuckles you can use (I think PT, but I cant remember) that keep the tie rod in almost the same position. You need to get new knuckles now anyway (since you didn't have them milled), so I would find out which ones fit better. I believe Vitor on neons.org wrote instructions on this swap.

1badassneon · Post by **1badassneon** » Fri May 02, 2008 6:40 am

DOHCRT wrote:
1badassneon wrote:You need to grind the hell out of the knuckles to make it fit.
You cannot grind the knuckles to make them fit. Its a machined surface, it has to be milled to a certain width. Did you do any reading on this prior to doing it?

There are different knuckles you can use (I think PT, but I cant remember) that keep the tie rod in almost the same position. You need to get new knuckles now anyway (since you didn't have them milled), so I would find out which ones fit better. I believe Vitor on neons.org wrote instructions on this swap.

yeah I have the PT knuckles.

i did read his how too, and did it the same way.

the knuckles are the correct with.

My issue is with a brake pedal that goes to the floor.

I looked all over on installs.... all the web boards and did not find really anyone that installed on a first gen.

1badassneon · Post by **1badassneon** » Fri May 02, 2008 11:47 am

well i found out that the bolts were over streched when i got them... the hole was oval in the center on the new ones, and the ones it came with were oblonged.
so the new bolts are installed, torque to spec...
now off to bleed the brakes and see what happens.

DOHCRT · Post by **DOHCRT** » Fri May 02, 2008 7:10 pm

What bolts are you referring to?

How can the knuckle be the correct width if you used a grinder?

1badassneon · Post by **1badassneon** » Sat May 03, 2008 8:34 am

because i miked them.

and the bolts are the banjo bolts.. the are the bolts that go into the brake line into the caliper.

but the bedal is still going to the floor.. i'm going to replace the metal brake line today.

DOHCRT · Post by **DOHCRT** » Sat May 03, 2008 1:01 pm

Do you machine heads with a grinder as well?

As far as your low pedal goes, you have air in the system or a leak. If the master cylinder was good before the install, I would find it hard to believe it magically went bad. Have you tried using a pressure bleeder to get the air out?

1badassneon · Post by **1badassneon** » Sun May 04, 2008 12:15 pm

Update…
Well I need to get back into the shop to finish today… I ran out of brake fluid.

Well I found a small drip of brake flush yesterday after sitting all night it was at the banjo bolt. I tightened just past 18ft, factory spec. and no more drop…. Well I still need to check toady at the shop.
But I bleed the back brakes, and put clamps on the front brake lines… and well

I have a stiff pedal, and the back brakes are TIGHT!!!

So the original banjo bolt that was damaged when I got it... and the new bolts not being tight enough lead to my issues.

I will post back after the front brakes are bleed.

1badassneon · Post by **1badassneon** » Sun May 04, 2008 12:16 pm

DOHCRT wrote:Do you machine heads with a grinder as well?

As far as your low pedal goes, you have air in the system or a leak. If the master cylinder was good before the install, I would find it hard to believe it magically went bad. Have you tried using a pressure bleeder to get the air out?

i'm using a vacular not sore on the spelling... it runs off of compressed air.

1badassneon · Post by **1badassneon** » Mon May 05, 2008 2:16 pm

Big update…..

Well still had no brakes yesterday.

But this morning 100% fixed… brakes are great!!!!!!!!!
Had the l/s caliper on the right side and the r/s caliper on the left side.
So the air was trapped in the caliper never to remove.

Lol finally on to the alignment rack.

1GN.ORG

doing a SRT4 front brake conversion

doing a SRT4 front brake conversion

Re: doing a SRT4 front brake conversion

Re: doing a SRT4 front brake conversion