Whats The Best/Quikest 1GN Tranny

Questions about axles, transmissions, differentials, pretty much anything that connects the engine to the wheels, this is the place for those questions.
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hotrod
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Whats The Best/Quikest 1GN Tranny

Post by hotrod » Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:54 pm

I'm Currently working on a 2.4L Dohc Swap for my 97 Sohc Neon
An Wanted the best/Fastest Close Gear Ratio Trans.
Does anyone Know Which tranny this is?
RT/ACR And Year :?:

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DOHCRT
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Post by DOHCRT » Sun Dec 20, 2009 2:37 pm

The 3.94 with the .81 5th gear from the 1st gen ACR and R/T. 2nd gen neons with Magnum engines also have this trans, but it has a higher torque rating (T-350HD).

You could also find a 3.94 with a .72 5th gear to make highway driving more reasonable. Non ACR and R/T models with DOHC engines were equipped with this trans.

Some people like the 3.55 trans for use with the 2.4L because of the extra torque produced by the engine. A 3.55 trans makes street driving with a built up 2.4 a little easier. You need a lot of traction to make good use of a powerful 2.4 with a 3.94 trans (think limited-slip).

Take a look at this chart for more info:

http://www.neons.org/forumdodge/trans.htm
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Post by hotrod » Tue Dec 29, 2009 3:36 pm

thank you bud :D

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Post by hotrod » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:45 am

I have another question, my car has a refurbished transmission dunno the year or specs, my question is how can I figure out what the specs are on this trans?
is there a code stamped on it somewhere?
and if yes, where do I go on the net to look it up?

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Post by Low-Speed » Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:44 am

If you look on the other .org, you will find a guy named Drakito.
He has a 4.12 FD version of the trans, with work ranging from simple rebuilds, to modifying the synchronizers so that you can "snatch" gears at high RPM's without the use of the clutch. (Realize, if I'm not mistaken, that setup is prone to breakage if you downshift. You basically run it out, put it in neutral, stop, then go to 1st again, so it's not "streetable".) Anyways, that's going to be a good source of info.

As for determining what you have, a 3.55 trans should turn around 2200 RPM @ 60. The 3.94 w/.72 5th should be around 2450 RPM @ 60, and the 3.94 w/.81 5th should be around 2750 RPM @ 60.

Without tearing it down, and counting the teeth, that's probably going to be the easiest way to tell, provided your cluster has a tach.
We're all crazy, it's just a matter of degree.

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Post by hotrod » Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:28 pm

hehe...thanx for the info :D

and I have no rpm tach just speedo :(

I wanted to put an srt-4 tach It looks cool

or just add a huge tach meter, an mount it on the dash, near

the left driverside window , dunno yet

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Post by 98moparR/T » Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:09 pm

srt4 tach looks just like a 2nd gen tach....you can just plug in a 1st gen tach cluster and your done
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Post by Ghost Neon » Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:18 am

Low-Speed wrote:
As for determining what you have, a 3.55 trans should turn around 2200 RPM @ 60. The 3.94 w/.72 5th should be around 2450 RPM @ 60, and the 3.94 w/.81 5th should be around 2750 RPM @ 60.

Without tearing it down, and counting the teeth, that's probably going to be the easiest way to tell, provided your cluster has a tach.
http://www.neons.org/forumdodge/trans.htm

There is a plate stamped on the transmission, just in side the driver's side fender area. Look for the numbers on the NVT plate and reference the link for correct gear set.

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Post by fuzzyneon » Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:38 pm

get 3.94's i have a 2.4 swap thats relitivly stock 3.94 is the best thing ive ever bought even for a heavy build it should be excelent
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Post by 98moparR/T » Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:46 am

depending on the 2.4 a 3.55 matches up better to lay power down instead of spinning
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You know...

Post by Low-Speed » Thu Jan 14, 2010 11:21 am

There are better ways to stop tire spin than by limiting your torque multiplication....

Proof? Honda B-Trans cars that normally kick your ass, have a 3.23 1st with a 4.40 Final. It means they are carrying a 14.2 drive ratio in first, compared with your 14.0, and every remaining gear they have comes out to a higher multiplication. That's part of why they can accelerate so hard. If you ever run across a real Type-R setup with some bolt-ons, N/A, sitting in a Hatch, it'll run into the 13's easily. Why? It's got a 4.78 Final Drive.

Those guys don't have crap tons of traction issues. But then, when was the last time you saw a built hatch that wasn't lowered, sitting on 205/50/15 or wider Ultra-High Performance Summer series tires?

Often, you'll see them with 12K rear springs in the cars. And here, it's not exceptionally unusual to see one with the front suspension cabled/strapped.

It's up to you, but I think it's better to gain traction, than to lose torque multiplication.
We're all crazy, it's just a matter of degree.

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Post by hotrod » Fri Jan 29, 2010 4:05 pm

Hmm? Sounds Reasonable 8)
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Post by JmAnneonrt » Fri Jan 29, 2010 4:12 pm

my cars a 98 rt now how can i tell what tranny is in mine and whats the difference really between them?
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Post by jamieely » Sat Jan 30, 2010 6:12 am

98moparR/T wrote:depending on the 2.4 a 3.55 matches up better to lay power down instead of spinning
This is what I was going to suggest. I know a couple people with bolt on 2.4s and they hate the no traction they got from the 3.94. One switched to the 3.55 and loves it. I am getting ready to trade the other guy my 3.55 for his 3.94HD.
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Post by 98moparR/T » Sat Jan 30, 2010 1:12 pm

JmAnneonrt wrote:my cars a 98 rt now how can i tell what tranny is in mine and whats the difference really between them?
should have 3.94A
Adam

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04 blue srt4 - tein ss coilovers, dsp tuned, mpx exhaust, agp hardline with greddy type S bov
04 black srt4 - sold
owned 6 other neons and more to come

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