You will also need something for fuel tuning, no?
Would probably also be a good idea to mill the head for extra compression as vinny said. Otherwise it's a very similar setup to a guy I knew, slowassneon. That car is pretty loapy, I dunno if I could drive it every day. He did, though.
It would be a good idea to get a merge collector on your header as well as having it coated, I've loved the swaintech coating on two different headers. It really blocks the heat and keeps it great looking. It's also really thick vs the other coatings, even if you scrap it, it will still be fine. The armorcoat on my pacesetter now doesn't next to nothing in reguard to heat.
sohcneon13x wrote:You don't really notice the UDP. It doesn't give you HP, it just frees a few ponies up.mean98neon wrote:go for a better UDP I have an MPX and I didnt notice a difference at all when it went on...
It gives you an increase in horsepower not only measured at the wheels, but also at the flywheel by which current horsepower rating is done. It gives you SAE horsepower, plain and simple. Saying it gives you none is just ridiculous given how it's currently measured.wikipedia wrote:In the United States the term "bhp" fell into disuse after the American Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) recommended manufacturers use hp (SAE) to indicate the net power of the engine, given that particular car's complete engine installation. It measures engine power at the flywheel, not counting drivetrain losses.
Starting in 1971 automakers began to quote power in terms of SAE net horsepower (as defined by standard J1349). This reflected the rated power of the engine in as-installed trim, with all accessories and standard intake and exhaust systems. By 1972, US carmakers quoted power exclusively in SAE net hp. The change was meant to 'deflate' power ratings to assuage the auto insurance industry and environmental and safety lobbies, as well as to obfuscate the power losses caused by emissions-control equipment.