thinking about getting. input?

Have a question about how to make horsepower going the all motor route, here's where to ask it.
misfit4life
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thinking about getting. input?

Post by misfit4life » Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:52 pm

ok so im thinking about just doing a sohc n.a

kirk cold air intake
relocate battery
mpx throttle body
mpx udp
mopar pcm sohc
indy intake manifold
crane 158 0010 cam. (off of modern)
crane springs and retainers
booger bushings
chikara headers.

if you have some advice or others things to get let me know!

and is there any point to rebuild the bottom on a n.a build

racyneon
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Post by racyneon » Fri Nov 16, 2007 3:38 pm

Go for the bigger cam. I dont think the crane 10 is much better than 95 cam. Get a longtube. You hardly notice a difference with the chikara header. Also just do the 3.0 cold air intake. Its much cheaper and you dont have to relocate your battery. List looks good though other than that. AMM builds custom intake manifolds too.
98 r/t: 2.0L=3 spun rod bearings. Starting 2.4L build with srt internals.
14.5@98mph 5psi
srt turbo, stock intercooler, stock downpipe, mpx pulley, 2.5" catback, maddog sts.

wickedgoodneon
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Post by wickedgoodneon » Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:18 pm

what he said

misfit4life
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Post by misfit4life » Sat Nov 17, 2007 12:08 am

so how much power could this get me? i have a adjustable cam gear too.

racyneon
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Post by racyneon » Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:31 am

Do it and find out.
98 r/t: 2.0L=3 spun rod bearings. Starting 2.4L build with srt internals.
14.5@98mph 5psi
srt turbo, stock intercooler, stock downpipe, mpx pulley, 2.5" catback, maddog sts.

wickedgoodneon
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Post by wickedgoodneon » Sat Nov 17, 2007 11:33 am

each engine gets a different output. So they only way to tell is put it on a dyno take a base reading then add all of your mods then dyno it again

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Lackof
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Post by Lackof » Sat Nov 17, 2007 3:02 pm

misfit4life wrote:so how much power could this get me? i have a adjustable cam gear too.
Cam gear will only allow for adjustments on your power band (shifting it around) ... it won't necessarily add any HPor TQ.

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AllMotorWes
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Re: thinking about getting. input?

Post by AllMotorWes » Sat Nov 17, 2007 3:20 pm

misfit4life wrote: and is there any point to rebuild the bottom on a n.a build
Yes, increase compression!!! If you want to do it right, go with JE Piston's & Eagle Rods. If you're looking to go a little cheaper, go with stock DOHC pistons.. it'll raise your compression a couple points. ;-)
project: 1998 ALLMOTR Coupe
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fusion210
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Re: thinking about getting. input?

Post by fusion210 » Sat Nov 17, 2007 3:47 pm

kirk cold air intake eh, either do a 3.0l tube one or something else, like a 3" 90* bend with a custom box style intake manifold
relocate battery why?
mpx throttle body a 60mm jeep throttlebody or other is a great alternative
mpx udp I have one on my 4 door, can't complain
mopar pcm sohc I'd get something like an af/x race pcm or at least the dohc mopar pcm for higher redline
indy intake manifold I saw a second hand dyno plot done that made a lot of power, pretty pricey though
crane 158 0010 cam. (off of modern) weak weak cam
crane springs and retainers retainers arn't needed and saves you a lot of money
booger bushings cool, I have boogers in one car and prothanes in another. No issues with either
chikara headers. The neon only has one header, and a chikara is reportedly one of the worse, unless you just want to replace a leaking cast iron exhaust manifold.
misfit4life wrote: and is there any point to rebuild the bottom on a n.a build
Depends one what you do. There are a few tricks and you can up the compression/get a lighter rotating assembly.

I'd be shocked if it made 140whp on a dynojet with what you have listed.

I can only see two reasons to build a sohc engine.

Novelty. You want to do something the hard way and get little horsepower for the money.
Cheapness. It already has a sohc and you just want a little more power.

Anything else is a total waste IMO. I can't argue novelty, that's subjective. If you do anything serious like an all out n/a build and all you want is more power, you can do it any other way and get better value. Be it a 2.0 dohc n/a build, 2.4l n/a build, any turbo or nitrous build beats both of those, pretty much every other way will get you more bang for your buck.

Just an example of what you could do with bolt-ons.
$250ish used AF/x race pcm
$100+ (used) air/fuel controller
$120+ tuning, either dyno or wideband
$400+ custom intake manifold
$30 cheap throttlebody
$50 hondata heatshield gasket to keep the intake manifold cool
$60ish custom 3" cold air intake and K&N filter
$450 a nice longtube with a merge collector
$60 universal cat
$30 welding or clamps
$150 random muffler
$100 whatever UDP
$280 aluminum flywheel

So you're looking at just over $2,000 give or take on bolt-on parts alone! Trust me, this won't even make your neon quick unless you remove a bunch of weight.

Then you're either stuck staying with a sohc engine or losing money trying to part it out.

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infil
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Post by infil » Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:08 pm

on an NA build the bottom end is about half of the equation.

NA power comes from displacement and compression. The other side of it is the cam. The 10 cam is a hair more aggressive than the 95 cam and honestly not worth the money. If yoru going to spend a couple hundred bucks on a cam, get a 158-0014. You can save a few bucks and run the magnum springs, as those run just fine with the 14 up to around 7800-8000rpm. Depending on what year your car is, that cam tops out around 7800 or so however manifolds will determine your powerband as well.

The indy is useless for NA. Way too much volume to be effective for a sohc especially. Get an AMM or magnum intake for the car, although the only real gain to be had from either is eliminating the 90 at the throttle body. Speaking of the throttle body, the 60mm will cost you torque but make up for it up top. If you are looking for a daily driver, go with a 55mm.
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1fast2liter
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Post by 1fast2liter » Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:09 am

x2 thats a good start infil......... are you auto or mtx? autozone sells a luk performance gold clutch kit. esentialy its a aluminum flywheel and a pt clutch.. holds real good.... and will get you to rev faster. and if you don't have the money for a 55mm tb get one off a atx as its 52mm and you can have that bored to 55mm. i agree the crane 14 is what you want.... while your at it have the head p&p youll get more out of the cam....

my question to you is how much you got to spend?
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96 blue coupe sold
96 white 4 door sold
95 blue sport parted out
97 straberrie red coupe sold
95 black base parted out

current drivers
97 dodge ram 1500 5.9 ext cab sport fire engine red. tinted windows cat back exhaust suer chips tune, 1 mephis audio sub

90 audi 80. 400 miles to the tank
2002 custom sportster 90 whp and quick too

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infil
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Post by infil » Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:28 pm

on an na setup, you actually want to keep some mass in the flywheel.
Infil <--click
AMSOIL, Technical Auto Group, S.I. J&V Tools
Fast Times Performance 2002 Subaru WRX 2.5, 11.936@113.18
95 All Motor Neon
13.958@96.99
SOHC - ALL MOTOR - STOCK BLOCK

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1fast2liter
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Post by 1fast2liter » Sun Nov 18, 2007 8:37 pm

no problems here.. i got a aluminum flywheel. and i love it.
Image

96 blue coupe sold
96 white 4 door sold
95 blue sport parted out
97 straberrie red coupe sold
95 black base parted out

current drivers
97 dodge ram 1500 5.9 ext cab sport fire engine red. tinted windows cat back exhaust suer chips tune, 1 mephis audio sub

90 audi 80. 400 miles to the tank
2002 custom sportster 90 whp and quick too

misfit4life
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Post by misfit4life » Thu Dec 06, 2007 2:43 am

ok so these are my new plans. feel free to ridicule :)

aluminum intake manifold
port and polish head
crane 14
crane springs
kirk long tube
lightweight udp
mopar pcm(not sure sohc dohc or auto.)
bosch +4
8.5 mm spark plug wires
boogies
msd coil
and a pt clutch

chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Thu Dec 06, 2007 11:15 am

Get another cam.
'97 black ACR coupe- #3 - Scrappy
'96 black coupe- #4
'97 magenta coupe- #10 - 13.379 @ 101.07 mph
'04 SXT mtx - #45 - GF's DD
'96 ACR
'95 Astro Van
'11 Chevy Express
'02 atx - #48
'98 Intense Blue R/T - #49
'04 SRT-4 - #50
'99 Intense Blue R/T - #51

52 and counting, when will it stop?

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