feul pressure ?

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wesker
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Post by wesker » Sun Nov 02, 2008 10:22 am

got 1
Image
got pulse when i turn acc on(line fill belive its 2-3 pulses),have pressure to fuel rail,out the return line,to fmu,to fpr,then on the return line out the fpr,no pressure.it all started though when a guy at the local speed shop said my fpr wuz hooked up wrong,so we flipped em around,that blew the hose off,so i put it back,then on my way home it started sputtering and leaning out bad???help please.

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wesker
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Post by wesker » Mon Nov 03, 2008 4:25 pm

figured it out,i used the fuel pressure gauge from my frp,and made an adapter from the fuel rail on out,pressure at idle is 30 or so,and i didnt use the 1 way check valve b 4 either,that was messing me up to,i'll take a vid and post it when i can.thanks for the help.

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Post by BlueR/T » Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:02 pm

as far as using a 1 way check valve only use it if you have to, i dont use one, an FMU is designed not to use one, the vacuum preloads the spring, giving a faster response time for increasing pressure

but if you are running good with one installed, then by all means use it

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wesker
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Post by wesker » Mon Nov 03, 2008 6:28 pm

what should i have the static at?30-40?then attach vacum,that sets idle i think?also,when i rev from outside,the pressure drops,could it be because i have a leak on the fuel rail/pressure gauge junction?i am going to use liquid metal around the seam,c if that blocks it.thanx 4 the input.

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Post by BlueR/T » Tue Nov 04, 2008 4:27 am

well you might not be getting enough fuel to breach the zero point, and ANY FUEL LEAK IS BAD!!!! DO NOT RUN YOUR CAR WITH A FUEL LEAK


once you get the leak fixed, try raising your static pressure, you need it so that when you go into Zero PSI you are rich, and you really need a wideband, if you don't have or can't get a wide band, take your car to a dyno, a FMU is not hard to tune, but if you tune it with a narrowband you will more then likely bend your rods and/or shatter pistons,

believe me, i have a block in my back yard that had a rod bend, piston shatter and the remaining rod punched a hole in the cylinder wall...

.....all because the previous owner tried to tune with a narrowband,

that was my parts car for my turbo project, im using all the same turbo parts, and fuel components, the only thing i changed was the boost controller, and i got a wideband, i'm running great with no problems

the difference between his car and mine was the tune

BTW he was running 5 PSI, i run 7 with a scramble boost of 10, and i never go above 11.5 A/F


also until you get a forged bottom end, don't go into boost at partial throttle, it's either full throttle or grandma, no in between

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wesker
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Post by wesker » Tue Nov 04, 2008 9:46 am

i didn't know it was so much to boost,shoulda just 2.4 swapped it,but alas,i listened 2 the wrong people on the first build,they kept saying,"why are you listening to a bunch of idiots on the internet for",obviously,it was the other way around.couldn't i use the 00 and up sohc fuel rail,cause mine sucks at the junction.threads dont match up.i'll be getting the wideband shortly too.

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wesker
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Post by wesker » Wed Nov 05, 2008 1:09 pm

did i do damage to the fuel pump when i hooked the fpr up backwards momenterally?staying lean even with no boost,sputtering at any change in the road,just got worse and worse in a matter of an hour.when i would first "acc" the key and watched fuel pressure gauge it would go up to around 90 or so each time,but after driving around and stuff,got home and did it again,this time no response in the fuel rail.

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wesker
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Post by wesker » Wed Nov 05, 2008 3:55 pm

lolz....my return line inside tank that goes into cannister blew off,thats y i didnt have any fuel pressure.now the fuel pressure reads 65 psi always,it will not move regardless of what i do.could the vortech sfmu be broke?

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