sohc build!

This is the place to ask questions about your engine components like cams, valves, pistons? just anything that is generally "engine" specific.
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1genRTturbo
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Post by 1genRTturbo » Sun Nov 27, 2011 8:55 pm

96sled wrote:Or jus do a head swap for now :) sounds about as complicated as building an sohc even tho a sohc can run damn good for cheap.but stock for stock a 2.4 is slower than a 2.0 dohc.
uhm, NO. the 2.4 is way better. my bud's white r/t with a stock 2.4 was faster than my r/t with the stock 2.0. better tourqe and just all around more powerful. so long as it has the 2.0 intake and cams. :wink:
It's not the fall that hurts, it's the sudden stop at the bottom!

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Post by 2drSRT4 » Sun Nov 27, 2011 9:32 pm

1genRTturbo wrote:
96sled wrote:Or jus do a head swap for now :) sounds about as complicated as building an sohc even tho a sohc can run damn good for cheap.but stock for stock a 2.4 is slower than a 2.0 dohc.
uhm, NO. the 2.4 is way better. my bud's white r/t with a stock 2.4 was faster than my r/t with the stock 2.0. better tourqe and just all around more powerful. so long as it has the 2.0 intake and cams. :wink:
Even with 2.4 cams, a stock 2.4 will blow a stock 2.0 out of the water with the right driver.
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chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Sun Nov 27, 2011 9:35 pm

2drSRT4 wrote:
1genRTturbo wrote:
96sled wrote:Or jus do a head swap for now :) sounds about as complicated as building an sohc even tho a sohc can run damn good for cheap.but stock for stock a 2.4 is slower than a 2.0 dohc.
uhm, NO. the 2.4 is way better. my bud's white r/t with a stock 2.4 was faster than my r/t with the stock 2.0. better tourqe and just all around more powerful. so long as it has the 2.0 intake and cams. :wink:
Even with 2.4 cams, a stock 2.4 will blow a stock 2.0 out of the water with the right driver.
Not true, they both run about the same stock for stock.
'97 black ACR coupe- #3 - Scrappy
'96 black coupe- #4
'97 magenta coupe- #10 - 13.379 @ 101.07 mph
'04 SXT mtx - #45 - GF's DD
'96 ACR
'95 Astro Van
'11 Chevy Express
'02 atx - #48
'98 Intense Blue R/T - #49
'04 SRT-4 - #50
'99 Intense Blue R/T - #51

52 and counting, when will it stop?

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neonfighter86
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Post by neonfighter86 » Sun Nov 27, 2011 9:37 pm

1genRTturbo wrote:
96sled wrote:Or jus do a head swap for now :) sounds about as complicated as building an sohc even tho a sohc can run damthatn good for cheap.but stock for stock a 2.4 is slower than a 2.0 dohc.
uhm, NO. the 2.4 is way better. my bud's white r/t with a stock 2.4 was faster than my r/t with the stock 2.0. better tourqe and just all around more powerful. so long as it has the 2.0 intake and cams. :wink:
and thats y im going with the 2.4 swap. For the reson that its more bang for ur buck.
If everything seems to be in control, you're not going fast enough.

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BaLLisTiK
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Post by BaLLisTiK » Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:00 pm

chipdogg wrote:
2drSRT4 wrote:
1genRTturbo wrote:
96sled wrote:Or jus do a head swap for now :) sounds about as complicated as building an sohc even tho a sohc can run damn good for cheap.but stock for stock a 2.4 is slower than a 2.0 dohc.
uhm, NO. the 2.4 is way better. my bud's white r/t with a stock 2.4 was faster than my r/t with the stock 2.0. better tourqe and just all around more powerful. so long as it has the 2.0 intake and cams. :wink:
Even with 2.4 cams, a stock 2.4 will blow a stock 2.0 out of the water with the right driver.
Not true, they both run about the same stock for stock.
My 2.0L (With just an Iceman, No cat to fart can) Blew my buddy's 2.4L swapped R/T out of the water, his was a stock 2.4L with stock cams and exhaust manifold. Yes the 2.4L makes a butt-load more Torque, but from visual experience, they are pretty close stock for stock, like chipdogg said.
Built 2.4L > Built 2.0L
boostless_98 wrote:I want to hear wat everyone has to say on the idea of right hand drive neon conversion. I know it can be gotten from australia.
Ianguilly wrote:Just drive from the passenger side.

chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:14 pm

There's more to it than just the engine.

With a stock 2.4 in my black coupe, I ran 14.7's with the interior in it. Blew it up, swapped in a 2.0, car ran 14.8's. Rest of setup was same except exhaust was changed to fast fabs header and 2.5" instead of the kirk header and stock exhaust on the 2.4.

Each engine varies a bit anyways.

But yes, once you start modding them, the 2.4 will win.
'97 black ACR coupe- #3 - Scrappy
'96 black coupe- #4
'97 magenta coupe- #10 - 13.379 @ 101.07 mph
'04 SXT mtx - #45 - GF's DD
'96 ACR
'95 Astro Van
'11 Chevy Express
'02 atx - #48
'98 Intense Blue R/T - #49
'04 SRT-4 - #50
'99 Intense Blue R/T - #51

52 and counting, when will it stop?

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BaLLisTiK
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Post by BaLLisTiK » Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:31 pm

Explained very well. ^
boostless_98 wrote:I want to hear wat everyone has to say on the idea of right hand drive neon conversion. I know it can be gotten from australia.
Ianguilly wrote:Just drive from the passenger side.

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neonfighter86
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Post by neonfighter86 » Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:48 pm

So I should do the 2.4 swap? It will be my first motor swap, thats y I was a lil confused if the 2.0 dohc would be better but I think im guna stick with the 2.4. Thanks guys
If everything seems to be in control, you're not going fast enough.

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BaLLisTiK
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Post by BaLLisTiK » Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:22 pm

2.4 Will give you bang for your buck.
If you're not planning on spending a buck or two with aftermarket parts, no point of swapping in a Stock 2.4L and keeping it stock. The gains of a stock 2.4L vs 2.0L are minimal at best.
boostless_98 wrote:I want to hear wat everyone has to say on the idea of right hand drive neon conversion. I know it can be gotten from australia.
Ianguilly wrote:Just drive from the passenger side.

chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:52 pm

I'd still definitely do the 2.4 swap. While you have engine out, best time to get it ready for future mods. Get .040" taken off the head, get Crower valve springs (usually on back order from summit when I order them), install new valve stem seals as well.

If you want, you don't live too far from here. Like 2.5 hours. Bring your 2.4 up here. I got an extra engine stand that's currently open. We can tear it down, I can have my buddy machine it. Usually charges me like $20-30 if I drop it off on a weekend. Otherwise it's $60.

I'll help you do the valve springs, stem seals, water pump, t-belt, etc. Get it ready to drop in.

Another weekend you can come up and we'll do the swap. I got lots of tools and have done at least a dozen 2.4 swaps. They start right up every time. People seem to have issues and it's really a simple swap. Should take a weekend tops. If we run into a snag, I got spare parts for almost everything.

I'd also consider rebuilding the bottom end. Spend the money now, instead of doing it twice. Since it'll be apart, all you'd need then is bearings and rings. $200 or so for that stuff. Honing/cleaning block is like $50. I have a nearly full tube of the proper green anaerobic bedplate sealant.

For about $700, you'll have a rebuilt 2.4 that's ready for cams and whatever else you put at it. Car should run around 15.0 or quicker with full interior once you get used to driving it. They aren't high rpm engines with stock/2.0 cams.

Get a clutch too with the engine out. $250 or so will get you a brand new high torque clutch. I run the 2.7L Stratus clutch. Holds up so far. Almost no break in, a dozen passes on slicks.

Find a 2.4 at a junkyard and PM me. We can work it out.
'97 black ACR coupe- #3 - Scrappy
'96 black coupe- #4
'97 magenta coupe- #10 - 13.379 @ 101.07 mph
'04 SXT mtx - #45 - GF's DD
'96 ACR
'95 Astro Van
'11 Chevy Express
'02 atx - #48
'98 Intense Blue R/T - #49
'04 SRT-4 - #50
'99 Intense Blue R/T - #51

52 and counting, when will it stop?

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Post by neonfighter86 » Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:26 pm

chipdogg wrote:I'd still definitely do the 2.4 swap. While you have engine out, best time to get it ready for future mods. Get .040" taken off the head, get Crower valve springs (usually on back order from summit when I order them), install new valve stem seals as well.

If you want, you don't live too far from here. Like 2.5 hours. Bring your 2.4 up here. I got an extra engine stand that's currently open. We can tear it down, I can have my buddy machine it. Usually charges me like $20-30 if I drop it off on a weekend. Otherwise it's $60.

I'll help you do the valve springs, stem seals, water pump, t-belt, etc. Get it ready to drop in.

Another weekend you can come up and we'll do the swap. I got lots of tools and have done at least a dozen 2.4 swaps. They start right up every time. People seem to have issues and it's really a simple swap. Should take a weekend tops. If we run into a snag, I got spare parts for almost everything.

I'd also consider rebuilding the bottom end. Spend the money now, instead of doing it twice. Since it'll be apart, all you'd need then is bearings and rings. $200 or so for that stuff. Honing/cleaning block is like $50. I have a nearly full tube of the proper green anaerobic bedplate sealant.

For about $700, you'll have a rebuilt 2.4 that's ready for cams and whatever else you put at it. Car should run around 15.0 or quicker with full interior once you get used to driving it. They aren't high rpm engines with stock/2.0 cams.

Get a clutch too with the engine out. $250 or so will get you a brand new high torque clutch. I run the 2.7L Stratus clutch. Holds up so far. Almost no break in, a dozen passes on slicks.

Find a 2.4 at a junkyard and PM me. We can work it out.
sounds good to me dude. thanks for offering me the help, like i said its my first time doing a swap so would appriciate the help , in guna hold u to it through lol. as soon as i get the motor ill send u a pm, since the neon is in the garage for winter, while it get new brake lines, springs and bushings.
If everything seems to be in control, you're not going fast enough.

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Post by BaLLisTiK » Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:16 am

chipdogg wrote:I'd still definitely do the 2.4 swap. While you have engine out, best time to get it ready for future mods. Get .040" taken off the head, get Crower valve springs (usually on back order from summit when I order them), install new valve stem seals as well.

If you want, you don't live too far from here. Like 2.5 hours. Bring your 2.4 up here. I got an extra engine stand that's currently open. We can tear it down, I can have my buddy machine it. Usually charges me like $20-30 if I drop it off on a weekend. Otherwise it's $60.

I'll help you do the valve springs, stem seals, water pump, t-belt, etc. Get it ready to drop in.

Another weekend you can come up and we'll do the swap. I got lots of tools and have done at least a dozen 2.4 swaps. They start right up every time. People seem to have issues and it's really a simple swap. Should take a weekend tops. If we run into a snag, I got spare parts for almost everything.

I'd also consider rebuilding the bottom end. Spend the money now, instead of doing it twice. Since it'll be apart, all you'd need then is bearings and rings. $200 or so for that stuff. Honing/cleaning block is like $50. I have a nearly full tube of the proper green anaerobic bedplate sealant.

For about $700, you'll have a rebuilt 2.4 that's ready for cams and whatever else you put at it. Car should run around 15.0 or quicker with full interior once you get used to driving it. They aren't high rpm engines with stock/2.0 cams.

Get a clutch too with the engine out. $250 or so will get you a brand new high torque clutch. I run the 2.7L Stratus clutch. Holds up so far. Almost no break in, a dozen passes on slicks.

Find a 2.4 at a junkyard and PM me. We can work it out.
Since you're offering all these services. I'm gonna come up from FL for a 2.4L Swap for me. lol jk
But that is pretty awesome that you'd help with all that. Wish I could get a deal like that with all the help.
boostless_98 wrote:I want to hear wat everyone has to say on the idea of right hand drive neon conversion. I know it can be gotten from australia.
Ianguilly wrote:Just drive from the passenger side.

chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Tue Nov 29, 2011 6:39 am

Lol go for it. I've done it for several people for cheap/free around here. It's fun and I enjoy doing it.
'97 black ACR coupe- #3 - Scrappy
'96 black coupe- #4
'97 magenta coupe- #10 - 13.379 @ 101.07 mph
'04 SXT mtx - #45 - GF's DD
'96 ACR
'95 Astro Van
'11 Chevy Express
'02 atx - #48
'98 Intense Blue R/T - #49
'04 SRT-4 - #50
'99 Intense Blue R/T - #51

52 and counting, when will it stop?

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1genRTturbo
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Post by 1genRTturbo » Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:30 pm

its too bad i pretty much had to be alone on my swap. still fired up first shot, with a random miss, but easy fix. enjoy it, the swap was fun.
It's not the fall that hurts, it's the sudden stop at the bottom!

2drSRT4
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Post by 2drSRT4 » Fri Dec 02, 2011 1:37 am

chipdogg wrote:I'd still definitely do the 2.4 swap. While you have engine out, best time to get it ready for future mods. Get .040" taken off the head, get Crower valve springs (usually on back order from summit when I order them), install new valve stem seals as well.

If you want, you don't live too far from here. Like 2.5 hours. Bring your 2.4 up here. I got an extra engine stand that's currently open. We can tear it down, I can have my buddy machine it. Usually charges me like $20-30 if I drop it off on a weekend. Otherwise it's $60.

I'll help you do the valve springs, stem seals, water pump, t-belt, etc. Get it ready to drop in.

Another weekend you can come up and we'll do the swap. I got lots of tools and have done at least a dozen 2.4 swaps. They start right up every time. People seem to have issues and it's really a simple swap. Should take a weekend tops. If we run into a snag, I got spare parts for almost everything.

I'd also consider rebuilding the bottom end. Spend the money now, instead of doing it twice. Since it'll be apart, all you'd need then is bearings and rings. $200 or so for that stuff. Honing/cleaning block is like $50. I have a nearly full tube of the proper green anaerobic bedplate sealant.

For about $700, you'll have a rebuilt 2.4 that's ready for cams and whatever else you put at it. Car should run around 15.0 or quicker with full interior once you get used to driving it. They aren't high rpm engines with stock/2.0 cams.

Get a clutch too with the engine out. $250 or so will get you a brand new high torque clutch. I run the 2.7L Stratus clutch. Holds up so far. Almost no break in, a dozen passes on slicks.

Find a 2.4 at a junkyard and PM me. We can work it out.
If I could take my neon to boot camp and swap it after I get out, I totally would. You wouldn't be so far. I would even pay you to help out. I have the engine, among other things, out of the car right now haha
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